Tanzania

Mt. Meru

2010-04-07T02:35:00.000-07:00

Over the Easter holiday, I hiked Mt. Meru with Jon, Brian, Gideon, Frenk, and Mtui. Mt. Meru is the fifth highest mountain in Africa, reaching 4,562m (14,980ft) in height and is located 70km west of Mt. Kilimanjaro (which is visible on a sunny day). Meru is an active volcano with many visible craters, cones, and lava remnants on its slopes. While Arusha National Park is located at the base of the mountain, Mt. Meru's lush forests provide shelter to over 400 wildlife species, including buffalo and leopards! Due to the dangerous wildlife, hikers are required to hire an armed mountain ranger to lead them on Momella Route of Mt. Meru.

The month of April is considered the start of the rain season in Tanzania. Needless to say, our hiking experience was a WET ONE. The majority of our trekking was completed in the POURING rain; we used large umbrellas, rain gear, and lodges for sleeping to keep us dry and warm. I enjoyed listening to the raindrops hit my umbrella. Hiking in the rain allowed me to escape into my own world and reflect about my time in Tanzania and all those in my life who I would have loved to have by my side on the journey.

The first day of hiking started in Arusha National Park (1,500m). Gideon, the assigned mountain ranger, took us on a walking safari! Jon, Brian, and I crept slowly in the meadows, while witnessing herds of buffalo, giraffes, and zebras live in harmony in their natural habitat. We then hiked to the Mt. Meru waterfall that was used by WaMeru pregnant mothers to cleanse and give birth. The hiking then continued into the overcast Meru forest. The afternoon rain shower produced an eerie atmosphere--there was mist, little sun, and silence. We reached the first camp, Miriakamba, (2,500m) late afternoon. The group rested in lodges that were solar powered!

Day two of hiking was in the moorland of Meru. Due to the significant amount of buffalo, we had to be careful not to step in the buffalo dung that was found on Momella every five meters. Luckily, Meru rangers built wooden steps on steeper terrain so avoiding buffalo dung was not an issue. Saddle camp (3,500m) also provided lodges to its hikers. At the campsite, I felt the effects of high altitude--stomach cramps, headache, dizziness, etc. We rested all day to prepare for our summit hike.

Like Mt. Kilimanjaro, hikers tend to summit Mt. Meru at sunrise. We left at 1:30AM with our headlamps, warm weather gear, and water. Although there were heavy rains for the past two days of hiking, on summit night only the bright moon and stars were present in the sky! Miraculously, there was NO rain for the ENTIRE summit hike. The terrain leading to the summit, unlike the Mt. Kilimanjaro summit hike, was steep and rocky. Using the moonlight and our headlamps, we slowly climbed up, down, and across giant pieces of dried lava. We reached Rino Point (3,800m) earlier than expected so we took a break for pictures and snacks. The hike continued and seemed everlasting due to the intense climbing. When we arrived close to the summit, it was only 5:30AM so we were forced to huddle under a rock to stay warm until sunrise (one hour later). While everyone slept, I took the time to remove wet layers and enjoy being above the clouds. We reached Mt. Meru summit (4,562m) in time to witness the sky slowly change from dark to light. On Socialist Peak (the summit), there is little wind, snow, and freezing conditions. Our group was able to remain on the summit drinking tea and taking photos.

Selela and RISE UP AFRICA

2010-03-21T07:33:00.000-07:00

SELELA

First of all, I want to apologize for not blogging sooner. Two weeks ago the GSC team camped and trained in a village called Selela. Selela is located one hour south of Engaruka (the village we worked at during the beginning of February). Like Engaruka, Selela is home to the Maasai people. There are hundreds of Maasai bomas (constructed from cow dung and mud) and lush farms that occupy Selela. Unlike Engaruka, however, Selela receives a plentiful amount of water from the Ngorongoro Crater so villagers can happily farm and live sustainable lives. Also, it rained in Selela for the first time in 2 years so the land was that much more rich of nutrients!

Throughout the week, I trained HIV/AIDS prevention to a community group in the morning and reproductive health to a primary school class in the afternoon. Unfortunately, the community group expected to be paid for attending our training sessions because NGOs who taught in Selela did so in the past. It was very difficult to convince villagers to attend our week-long training without pay and to justify GSC's reasons for not paying them (lack of funds, intention of teaching, etc.). Attendance from Monday to Tuesday plummeted from 25 to 10 trainees. GSC does not face this problem in villages closer to Arusha or at schools so it was a new challenge for me to encounter and solve.

HOME IN ARUSHA

Last week, I returned to Rise Up Africa to teach "life skills" to the same group of 24 Burundi refugees girls. (I taught HIV prevention/reproduction at Rise Up the week prior to camping in Selela). Coincidentally, a prior GSC volunteer founded Rise Up but Tanzanian staff members currently operate the NGO. Rise Up is an orphanage specifically for refugee women. Last year, 24 girls were rescued by a Catholic priest in Burundi and taken to this haven. Rise Up provides these girls shelter and teaches them vocation skills such as cooking, cleaning, sewing and basic education (e.g., history, English, Bible, etc.). Unfortunately, like many small NGOs, Rise Up is severely lacking in funds. The girls have to study in a dark classroom without desks or electricity. In addition, their diet consists of ugali and a small portion of cooked vegetables for every meal. Each day, the girls wake up at 5AM for Morning Prayer and chores. They are responsible for cooking their own meals and completing their daily tasks that take place until evening. Due to these extreme circumstances, I found it difficult to effectively train the girls during what would have been their 4-hour break (9am-1pm).

During my first week of training, their situation became blatantly apparent when 6 of the 24 students fell asleep in the classroom on the first day. Knowing their level of exhaustion I used many techniques to keep them awake (i.e., breaking every hour for singing and dancing, providing chai and chapati, using interactive teaching methods like group activities and games). I felt so bad keeping the girls trapped in the classroom during their scheduled leisure time. Therefore, when GSC assigned Tom, Kristy, and I to teach life skills at RISE UP we were thoroughly opposed; the girls were not engaged during our previous week-long training (rightfully so) and they were trained in life skills EVERY DAY.

On my first day of teaching, I attempted to obsequiously follow GSC's assignment. I stood in front of the classroom and lectured about healthy relationships for one hour. This was the longest hour of teaching--heads bobbing and lack of participation or enthusiasm. After a chai break, I threw my lesson plan away and asked the girls what they wanted to do during our time spent together; this was the best decision that I have ever made as a teacher. The girls desperately wanted to exercise, learn English, and make jewelry. For the rest of the week, we spent our time playing football, teaching English, and making beaded earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. The vibe of the classroom quickly changed to positivity, liveliness, and eagerness to learn.

On Tuesday, we spent our time at a football field near the girls' home. Before our game started, the girls changed out of their suffocating uniforms and put on whatever leisure clothes they owned (the majority of girls were forced to still play in their uniform skirts). We scrimmaged on a field full of acacia thorns so the two balls quickly deflated! So after a short-lived game of football, we played various field games like spider web and red rover. The girls then invited us to stay for lunch. I learned how to cook and stir a giant pot of ugali! After lunch, we decided to stay at the girls' home until the afternoon rain passed. One girl named Dorcus played a bongo drum while the rest of us danced and sang inside their bedroom. I watched in amazement as the girls shook their hips while keeping their upper bodies completely still. Of course the only dance move that I could offer was the hitchhiker but I think they appreciated my god-awful rhythm and silliness. Between playing and spending time at their home, I think a barrier between student and teacher was broken on Tuesday. For the rest of the week, the girls were free. They laughed, asked me questions, shared stories about their lives, and looked forward to our time spent together. Luckily on Wednesday, we found a football field that was void of acacia thorns. Furthermore, we decided to teach English outside at their home instead of on the RISE UP campus. By doing so, the girls were able to remain in their comfortable clothes and be outside in the shade. On Thursday and Friday, we made beaded jewelry on a tarp outside of the classroom. Jewelry making is a useful skill because it can provide the girls with a source of income!

My week of teaching at RISE UP was extremely rewarding. I developed relationships with each student and plan on returning to the school during April. (I befriended the headmaster Norbert who informed me that I am welcome to teach the girls any time!).

Engaruka

2010-02-24T03:25:00.000-08:00

I joined the GSC team in Engaruka for 2 weeks. This village is located 4 hours Southeast of Arusha in the foothills of the Rift Valley. Engaruka is home to the Maasai pastoralists and Somalian farmers. For 3 weeks in February, GSC volunteers trained BIA to farmer groups during the morning and HIV/reproduction health to a primary school in the afternoon.

WEEK ONE:

Teaching

During my first week in Engaruka, I trained over 30 Maasai villagers about sustainable agriculture. Unfortunately, after the first day it was apparent that none of these villagers used farming methods for survival. Unlike previous trainings, our Engaruka students showed little interest or enthusiasm in learning gardening techniques. During the practical sessions, the GSC volunteers constructed the majority of the compost and double dug beds while our students observed from afar. The Maasai in Engaruka (unlike in Arusha) practice traditional customs; they are pastoralists, NOT farmers. Maasai rely heavily on cattle for food, dowry, and income. Therefore, in the rare occasion that Maasai decide to farm, they use the crops solely for income and not for their own nutrition. Every day Maasai mamas spread their vegetables (mostly small tomatoes and onions) on the dirt road in the village center. Similarly, every Monday and Thursday mamas from surrounding villages would travel to Engaruka in attempt to sell their meager amount of fruits and vegetables.

The highlight of my first week was teaching Reproduction Health to a classroom of primary school students. I taught the same group of students for 2 consecutive weeks (first week about reproduction and second week about HIV). My classroom became an open forum. Although I used the lesson plan as a guideline, I spent the majority of my time answering questions that students did not feel comfortable asking their parents or teachers. Most of the students who attend Engaruka Juu Primary School are orphans (over 100 students board) and, as a result, turn to their peers for insight about sexuality. Throughout the week, I clarified and ended several rumors about sex and reproduction. Students were eager to learn (while laughing) and wanted me to stay longer each day. I loved ending our class with singing and dancing--who knew that the Macarena would be so well loved.

Camping

We camped at Moses Campground in Engaruka Juu. The site is located at the base of the Rift Valley among Maasai bomas. A Maasai boma or Maasai home is constructed of cow dung and sticks. The bomas tend to be temporary shelters until the cattle are ready to be herded to a new location.

Camping in Engaruka was one of the most beautiful experiences (excluding the 106 degree heat). A Maasai man named Israel was the director of the site. Over the 2 weeks, he took us on hiking excursions into the Valley. (We were not allowed to hike without a guide due to the lions, buffalos and hyenas that resided in the mountains). Along with guiding, Israel and his wife cooked dinners for our team. Since most of us enjoyed vegetables that they were not used to cooking, we took the initiative to cook our own dinners periodically.

During our camping excursions, I share a tent with 3 other girl volunteers. I think I have mastered sleeping on a thin pad, packing the bear essentials, using a headlamp after 7PM, defecating in a hole, and showering in the dark.

Slaughtering

Every Thursday, Engaruka Chini has a livestock market. Maasai villagers herd their goats and cows for miles to sell them in Chini. Our team purchased a goat to kill and cook for dinner! At our campsite, Israel used his Maasai machete or panga to slit the goat's throat. Although I was not a fan of the goat meat, I like the taste of a medicinal tea that consisted of boiled goat blood/remnants and plants.

Weekend

Over the weekend, our team visited Lake Natron and an active volcano called Ol Doinyo Lengai or "Mountain of God." Lake Natron is a flamingo-breeding center (both greater and lesser flamingos present) due to the alkaline and shallow water. Thousands of bright pink feathers outlined the lake as the sun set at Natron. Lengai is the only active sodium carbonate volcano in the world (3450 meters). Like Mt. Kilimanjaro, most hikers climb this peak at midnight due to the blinding sun and heat. Last year, villages surrounding Lengai were forced to evacuate due to a major eruption. People suffered due to the massive death toll of cattle and farmlands being destroyed. Needless to say, our organization believed that it was too great of a liability to allow our team to hike the volcano.

WEEK 2:

Teaching

After our first week of teaching BIA, the message was spread to Engaruka villagers that they would not be paid for our training sessions. Unlike GSC, other NGOs pay their participants to attend training sessions. I feel that this recruiting method is ineffective and hindering to other non-profits. By using money instead of knowledge as the incentive, villagers fail to implement the skills learned. As a result, only 4 people participated in our training. Initially, I was extremely frustrated with the turnout of our classroom but as the training proceeded I realized that this group was present for the sole purpose of learning. Unlike our students during the first week, these students were more than willing to help make compost and beds. They asked questions and were on time for every training event. With such a small class, I was able to develop close relationships and tailor the training sessions to each of their needs. At the end of the week, we all exchanged mailing addresses and I was offered a plot of land!

Like BIA, there were many challenges while teaching HIV prevention to the primary school. Unfortunately, the headmaster did not want condom use or birth control to be mentioned in our lesson plan. How do you effectively teach students about HIV prevention without mentioning the word condom!? Additionally, why was I allowed to speak about sex and reproduction freely the previous week but be restricted in what I teach about the following week? To make matters worse, we were forced to cut and mark out pages of the GSC booklets that were given to the students. While teaching prevention, students inevitably inquired about condom use and told us that other NGOS had demonstrated how to use them!

Condoms in Engaruka?

After dealing with this complicated situation at the school, I was curious about the prevalence of condom use among Maasai. Shockingly, condoms are not sold at the stores in the village center! In Maasai culture, polygamy is heavily practiced. Typically, the men that I met in Engaruka had at least 2 wives. Concurrent relationships and lack of condom use is a deadly combination for the spread of HIV. Furthermore, villagers in Engaruka do not trust the condoms that occasionally are sold at the stores due to their well-overdue expiration dates.

Reproduction

For Maasai, reproducing children is a top priority. Before a couple gets married, the woman must breed a healthy newborn. If there are problems with infertility or the newborn is unhealthy, the man will refuse the woman's hand in marriage. It is common for a close relative or friend to give their newborn away to an infertile woman so she can marry.

Walk and talk and love

I love to wonder. Every day after work I ventured into town alone or with a volunteer. Walking exposed me to more homes, people, and cornfields. I spent my time speaking to villagers about daily life in Engaruka--their informal education, marriage and family life, being a pastoralists, their means for water and nutrition, the harmful effects of global warming etc.

One day, similar to the situation in Ngurdoto, Harry (GSC staff) and I were trapped in a rainstorm. We were welcomed into a Maasai boma by a mama and her children until the storm passed. How will I leave this beautiful country and these beautiful people?

Engaruka

2010-02-07T20:44:00.000-08:00

Hello!

I will be camping in a Maasai village called Engaruka for 2 consecutive weeks. Engaruka is 6 hours away from Arusha and 1 hour away from Lake Natron. I will not have access to internet or phone, but I will continue write and I will share my thoughts when I return.

I miss you all very much!

Mbolea!

2010-01-30T02:11:00.000-08:00

This week our team returned to Ngurdoto for HIV prevention and bio-intensive agriculture (BIA) training. While two of the volunteers lead a prevention class, I was the only counterpart teaching sustainable agriculture. Javeson (one of the GSC staff members) and I provided farmers with an in-depth lesson plan about BIA. Our classroom was nestled in the cornfields in a cement church building that overlooked Mt. Meru and Mt. Kilimanjaro.

As I had mentioned before, my favorite aspect of SA is being able to apply the lessons taught in the classroom to the field. On the third day, we constructed a double dug bed that was 6 x 1.5 meters. In order to make a double dug bed, farmers must dig 1 foot of top soil, a second foot of sub-soil, and a third foot must be loosened. It may be hard to picture but this trench is massive! After digging three feet or 1.5 meters, farmers place the sub-soil back into the trench and then add manure or compost onto the sub-soil. This step is repeated for the topsoil layer. The double-dug bed in its final stages has a semi-circle tubular shape that allows for increased number of plants per unit area. The ultimate goal of double digging is to produce a "living sponge-cake" in the soil (produced by the soil-manure combination). Double dug beds improve soil moisture retention, air circulation, promote plant growth, and control soil erosion. Additionally, these beds have a lifespan of three years! If anyone is interested in forming her/his own double dug bed feel free to email me and I will provide you with detailed information. I highly suggest this method for growing your own fresh vegetables!

MBOLEA (Manure)

During the construction of the double dug bed, babas and kakas (fathers and sons) shoveled soil while mamas and dadas (mothers and sisters) carried buckets of manure from a farm on a hill to the farming site. While Javeson lead the digging, I helped women rake and carry mbolea from the home. These women were surprised by my physical strength and, as a result, nicknamed me "dada Africa." As we carried the buckets, farming songs were sung in unison. I was eager to learn the songs and move with the African rhythm. Shoveling manure, with only women by my side, made me profoundly respect the strength of African mamas who assume the roles of farmers, caregivers, and household keepers. With all of these duties, there is a mutual understanding between the women that farming plots (like the double dug beds) can be shared as a community. There is a widespread saying in Kiswahili termed "Tuko pamoja" or "We are all one." Ngurdoto farmers clearly apply this phrase to their way of life.

Offering Gifts

After constructing a double dug bed, I felt deeply connected to my class. The practical portion allowed me to interact with farmers informally. I became a Maasai babu's adopted granddaughter, a friend of the dadas, and individual teacher to the babas. Throughout the week, I took several photos and printed copies for each member in the class. They were all amazed by the abilities of the digital camera and appreciated my photos. On the last day of class, all of the women left the church and re-entered while singing the offering of the gift song and each holding a present for me! Tears filled up in my eyes as I saw mamas carrying sacks of beans and corn, bags of pineapple, mango and eggs, and two freshly cut banana trees! Peter, one of the village leaders, then delivered a written speach thanking Javeson and me for our teaching sessions. I found out later that this was the first time that Ngurdoto had a non-profit travel to their village to deliver farming training! Fortunately, we return to this village at the end of the month for follow-up training so I will be able to re-visit the compassionate, thoughtful, and kind people of Ngurdoto.

Ngurdoto

2010-01-23T03:54:00.000-08:00

VILLAGE LIFE
This week our Sustainable Agriculture team camped in a village called Ngurdoto. The village is located 20km away from Arusha and is divided into 5 sub-villages. Kati, the town center and where our team camped, consisted of two small shops, two local bars, a "bus" stop and a produce stand. Ngurdoto was not touristy or busy. Camping in this village was the first time that I had felt completely removed from Western culture and immersed in Tanzanian life. Everyone in the village was extremely welcoming and curious about our group. Unlike Arusha, children greeted volunteers by saying "Shikamo" instead of "Mambo." Politeness and respect were widespread. People spent time after work socializing in the town center--children, adults, and elders all sat together laughing and loving each other. Men played checkers and pool while women cooked and sat at the shops. To join the social hour, our group introduced Frisbee to Kati. We threw the Frisbee in a circle that consisted of 3 volunteers and 10 locals. Everyone present in the town center crowded around the Frisbee circle to watch this activity. People of all ages were very amused and delighted to watch. Mamas and dadas seemed too bashful to play but children and adult males were all about Frisbee playing.

CHICKENS
Our team consisted of 5 volunteers (Mary-Ellen, Brendan, Gabbie, Kristy, and me), 5 GSC staff members (Somme, Crispan, Harry, Javeson, and Tom), and 4 community leaders who GSC trained throughout the week. Our program this week involved vaccinating chickens against New Castle disease; this illness is the most prevalent and deadly among chickens in TZ. GSC uses a vaccination called I-2. This medicine requires a cool environment and one drop must be placed into the chicken, rooster, or chick-let's eye. In order to keep the medicine cool, each group wrapped a wet konga (or cloth) around the bottle and placed it into a whisk basket.

From 6AM to 10AM, our team split up into smaller groups to vaccinate chickens in one of the 5 sub-villages. Vaccinations occur early in the morning because families have not let the chickens out of their coup so it takes less effort to catch the fast-running animals. I was fortunate enough to work with Crispan (the director of SA), David (the town mayor), Peter (a village leader), and Kristy. The majority of our mornings included walking in the corn fields to homes, educating farmers about I-2, and dropping the vaccination into the chickens' eyes. At each home, a community leader recorded how many chickens were vaccinated, how many died, how many were eaten, and how many were sold. Upon completion, we all reconvened in a church to discuss challenges and questions. Javeson provided further information to the community leaders about the disease and strategies for sustainability.

I loved the process of vaccinating chickens! Before entering every home, it is polite to say "Hodi" or "May I enter." Then, it is important to say "Shikamo" to all elders and greet children. My Kiswahili has improved over the past few months so after the initial greeting I was able to interact with family members (particularly mamas and dadas) at each home. Along with socializing, I loved snatching the chickens and vaccinating them. At one home, I vaccinated 129 chickens!! The estimated cost of a single chicken is around 2,000TSH. Many times farmers sell the eggs or chickens to the larger markets for profit. The vaccination PREVENTS chicken death and supports families' income!

WALKING
After lunch every day I walked around the village. On the first day, Mary-Ellen and I walked and walked and walked and ended up getting completely lost. Villagers were more than willing to direct us. One dada climbed up a tree and picked 3 mangoes for us to eat on our long journey back to our campsite. Another day we walked until a rainstorm struck the village. When the intensity of the storm increased, we were immediately welcomed into people's homes. We ended up sitting at a home with a mother named Judith and her two sons. Judith, who appeared to be in her early 2os, was more than accommodating. She served us hot pouridge with sugar and insisted on us staying until the storm subsided. After the storm passed, it took every ounce of energy for me not to cry. This family offered me everything that they could possibly provide (shelter, food, kindness). I will be forever grateful to have experienced this kind of humanity.

Overall, my experience in Ngurdoto made me realize the potential for a close-knit community. Although poverty and illness and lack of education are widespread, people LOVE, RESPECT, and CARE for each other while using the earth's resources for survival.

sustainable agriculture (SA)

2010-01-16T03:44:00.000-08:00

This past week I started the sustainable agriculture program. The majority of our training sessions will be taking place in villages outside of Arusha. Last week, our SA team and a group of 30 nurses who are volunteering for GSC for the month of January, camped out in Mto wa Mbu (literal translation River of Mosquitoes!). Mto wa Mbu is 150km away from the city and borders Manyara Park. The village is somewhat touristy because many safari companies stop for a night on their way to the Crater and the Serengeti. Store vendors sold typical tinga tinga paintings and Maasai carvings, while mamas sold bundles of RED and yellow bananas. Fortunately, we camped about 1km away from the village center in a family's backyard. The family consisted of 5 lively children who loved to sing bongo flava mixes, dance, and play games. Our campsite at night transformed into our classroom during the day. Every morning, Brendan, Mary-Ellen, and I taught brief SA lessons to a group of 30 farmers, while Javeson (one of the SA experts) proceeded to expand and translate our points.

GSC promotes bio-intensive agriculture (BIA). This is a special form of organic farming which is rooted in maintaining sustainable soil fertility by use of "compost." Compost is produced by resource materials grown/found on farms. BIA is a chemical free form of farming which discourages use of chemical sprays and artificial fertilizers. It is a method of raising crops which is cost conscious, simple to learn, and based on scientific technology. There are 6 components of BIA, including: compost making and its utilization, deep land preparation by double digging, plant diversity/companion planting, natural solution against plant pests/diseases, close plant spacing, and maintenance of natural seeds. The 6 topics are taught over a 5-day period.

In addition to teaching farmers, there is a practical portion of our lesson. Farmers are able to apply what they have learned in the classroom setting to the field. With the guidance of the GSC staff and volunteers, farmers practice making compost, a double-dug bed, and sack gardens. The farmers of Mto wa Mbu were eager and enthusiastic to apply what they learned in the classroom to the field. They enjoyed working together as a team to construct the compost and double-dug bed. At the end of the week, they expressed interest in organizing a community farming group among themselves! As part of the program, GSC will return to Mto wa Mbu in 3-months for a follow-up session. I have faith that these farmers will continue practicing the sustainable methods due to their heightened enthusiasm and willingness to change.

As a SA volunteer, I prefer the practical portion of the experience because I am able to actively provide a service and I am far from an expert on this subject so teaching feels like a daunting task. Ultimately, for the next few weeks I hope to participate in as a much mindless, physical labor as possible!

One of the highlights from Mto wa Mbu was building a sack garden for a HIV positive mother. Somme, a nurse volunteer, and I traveled to her home and taught her how to make/use this versatile garden. The mama and her children will now be provided with sustainable nourishment for 3 consecutive farming seasons due to the sack!

A sack garden is a farming alternative used in areas where there is a lack of land/water or by farmers who are too weak/sick to maintain large farms. To make a sack garden, a sack must be filled with a compost-top soil mixture. After filling the sack with 2 buckets of the mixture, a pole is placed in the center of the sack. The center stick's main purpose is to evenly distribute the water throughout the sack. After the sack is full with the mixture, the center stick is removed and gravel and water are placed in the cylinder-like center. For the completion of the sack garden, a farmer must make small slits along the outside of the sack for planting seeds. These slits are made in a triangle pattern for optimal growth. The sack garden can grow leafy vegetables such as Chinese cabbage and smaller vegetables such as carrots. Potatoes, tomatoes, and other larger vegetables are not suitable for a sack garden because their bodies are too heavy.

Kendwa and Nungwi

2010-01-09T00:33:00.000-08:00

After spending a night in Stonetown, we traveled one hour north to Kendwa and Nungwi. Both villages are known for their beaches and touristy atmosphere. In Nungwi, I befriended the owner of a small hotel and later returned to his accommodation at the end of our trip. The Nungwi hotel was an ideal getaway in paradise--hammocks overlooking the Indian Ocean, stretches of endless beach, a fire pit, and freshly prepared meals of our choice. We called this hotel a hidden treasure due to its friendly staff (who treated us like family) and its tranquility, set a part from busy downtown Nungwi.

Every day in paradise, I walked into the villages to buy fruit, eat cheaper local meals, and talk to residents. Like other resort destinations, the contrast between the wealthy and poor was stunningly apparent and disturbing. Many locals are jobless and spend their days sitting at shaded shops. Job opportunities are limited in Zanzibar due to poor education and limited foresight of future. Many Zanzibarians solely rely on agriculture for survival. They farm every day in their villages and do not travel to other areas of the island. Lack of travel means lack of exposure and experience. Lack of travel is obvious due to the fact that there are no cars on the Zanzibarian roads with the exception of taxis. Ultimately, extreme poverty exists everywhere on this island. Locals are struggling to survive, while tourists are enjoying the comforts of their hotel and Zanzibar's immaculate beaches.

electrical problems

2010-01-06T05:18:00.000-08:00

The ferry arrived in Stonetown around 7PM. We decided to stay in a cheap guesthouse called the Haven. The owner of the house charged us $15 per night for 2 beds, mosquito nets, and bucket showers. He then informed us of the electrical situation on the island. Unfortunately, for the months of December and January, Zanzibar did not and still does not have electricity. The Zanzibarian government claims that there is only one electrician who is capable of fixing the country's power outage and that this electrician is on holiday in the Netherlands until the end of January. This means that posh hotels, restaurants, and businesses must operate using generators for water supply and other amenities. It did not take long to realize that the Zanzibarians were suffering due to this major problem. Without power, there is no running water. Locals must therefore rely on city wells and pay 500TSH per bucket of water. WATER=LIFE and many locals do not have enough money to constantly be paying for a daily supply.

During my time spent in Zanzibar, it amazed me that people somehow managed to survive given their severe circumstances. I just cannot believe that a government would allow its citizens to suffer for such a long time in the grueling heat. An electrical outage, like the current situation, occurred during the months of June and July 2009. It is obvious that Zanzibarians are becoming fed up with the government's laissez-faire approach.

Mtae-->Zanzibar

2010-01-06T05:05:00.000-08:00

Wow, what a day for traveling! Mary Ellen and I started our day at 3:30AM on the Fasaha bus from Mtae to Lushoto. The ride was twisty and turning and bumpy. We then bought I.T. "luxury" bus tickets for 8AM to Dar es Saalam. We had one hour to pack our remaining clothes from the tourist office, eat breakfast, and board the bus. Unlike our voyage from Arusha to Lushoto, this bus line stopped several times throughout the 7-hour journey. Fortunately, before departing for Dar, Aggrey (our hiking guide from Lushoto) gave us the contact of his friend who sells ferry tickets to Zanzibar. We called the friend and used this contact to our advantage! We arrived in Dar around 3:30PM and the last ferry took off at 4PM!! We hopped in a taxi with Aggrey's friend and raced to the coastline. When we arrived at the ferry station, 6 Tanzanian men surrounded our taxi and told us to "HURRY UP" and purchase transport tickets. We frantically threw our money and passports at the workers and ran onto the boat. With the help from Aggrey and his friend and a bit of good fortune on our side, we made the afternoon ferry to Zanzibar.

traveling with Mary Ellen (Lushoto, Rangwi, Mtae)

2010-01-06T04:08:00.000-08:00

My traveling adventures commenced on December 19th and proceeded until January 5th. We started our journey in the Usambara Mountains in a village called Lushoto. After departing Arusha at 5AM, we crammed into a minibus and drove for 8 1/2 hours. We stopped one time for a bathroom break on the side of the road and many times to pick up passengers. Overall, the bus system in Tanzania is very unorganized and hectic--ticket prices fluctuate depending on the passenger, departures are never on time, vendors desperately try to sell biscuits, water, and random trinkets, and fruit at every stop, and many times there are 3 if not 4 people sharing seats designed for 2 people. As we approached Lushoto, the contrast of colors amazed me; mamas sold fresh plums and guava, palm trees were planted at the base of the rocky mountains while lush farmlands surrounded the bus route. The road leading up to Lushoto is crevessed in the mountains and is a steep uphill climb into town.

Upon arrival, we were instantly greeted by tourist workers and asked to visit the Cultural Tourism Center. Lushoto's tourism industry was developed in the 1990s and has been a blossoming industry ever since. There are many tourist options, including cycling, hiking, tasting cheese and rye bread from a farm, etc. Mary Ellen and I decided to arrange a 3-day hike to a small village called Mtae which is on the western side of the Usambara Mountains.

We began our hike from Lushoto to Rangwi. We hiked uphill and through a forest to a road. Due to the scorching heat, we waited for a bus to take us to the village. In Rangwi, we explored and spoke to villagers. The majority of people here are farmers and rely on harvesting cabbage, corn, and beans for income and survival. Along with Rangwi villagers, 60 percent of the Usambara region is Muslim while 40 percent are Catholic. On the first day of hiking, it was the Islamic New Year! Muslim men, women, and children happily danced and paraded and sang and celebrated their holiday in the streets of Rangwi. What a vibrant time!

The second day of hiking was spent in many different terrains but my favorite time was hiking through a pine tree forest. We spoke to lumberers and children who balanced and carried bundles of timber on their heads. Adults and children sell, transport, carry, and chop timber and export the wood to Dar, Mtae and other Usambara villages. As we left the forest, many children carrying timber on their heads approached me with curiosity. I taught them a song called "Boom chicka boom" and we chanted it together while trekking down the path. There are so many colors in Mtae between the landscape and bright kongas found on mamas and children.

On this day, we also visited a traditional healer. The healer deals with minor illnesses such as stomach pains and malaria. I asked him many questions about his abilities and his opinions about Western medicine (which he supports). He also informed us about witch doctors who are similar to healers but curse those they come in contact with. The healer performed a spiritual ritual for Mary Ellen. He smeared black coal on her body and repeated prayers and chants. He believed that these acts would protect her from bad spirits. It was a mystical experience and I would have loved to spend more time at his home to witness traditional healings.

Serengeti National Park

2010-01-06T00:43:00.000-08:00

After hiking Kilimanjaro, I was hesitant to go on a 4-day safari because the thought of sitting in a land cruiser seemed sedentary and indolent. Unexpectedly, I absolutely loved camping in the middle of the wilderness for 3 nights listening to the cries of the hyenas and mischievous bamboos. Philbert, my safari guide and friend, is the most enthusiastic and passionate person. He made each game drive exciting and educational. At the entrance of the Serengeti, we spotted an injured lion and a baby zebra following a safari land cruiser for protection! The following day, I witnessed the hunting of a zebra by a male lion who tracked his prey from a sausage tree. I saw an elephant stuck in a fresh water hippo pond, a cheetah resting under a kopjes (large rock), herds of elephants and buffalo, baboons, reed bucks and water bucks, hyenas, hyrax (cousin of elephant), zebras, leopards. . . so many animals! It is hard to believe that in only 4 days I was able to be among many species in their natural habitat.

The Serengeti is the first an largest national park. It was established in 1951 and is 14,763 sq kilometers (larger than Connecticut!). It protects the wild beast migration and is considered a World Heritage site. There are 28 hoofed animal species and 530 bird, plant, and insect species. In Tanzania, 25 percent of its land is considered protected area. There are 11 National Parks within the nation.

During our safari experience, we briefly visited the stunningly beautiful Lake Manyara and the Ngorongoro Crater. The Crater is considered to be a conservation area in Tanzania. The Maasai have designated bomas to live in at Ngorongoro. The government is using a Community Based Conservation approach; they believe in the empowerment of rural Maasai communities to sustain, manage, and use natural resources. This approach seems to mirror the Western strategy of Indian reservations. Indigenous tribes are forced to live on a designated plot of land and are expected to succeed.

When we visited the shamba of a Maasai tribe, we entered a family's shamba (constructed out of cow dung), saw their primary school, and participated in a traditional Maasai dance. Although the experience was eye-opening, I could not help but question the effectiveness of the conservation approach. Maasai people 5 km outside of the boma, for example, were suffering from dehydration and malnutrition. The Maasai's herding lifestyle seems difficult to manage due to weather conditions like long droughts and globalization/the impact of tourists.

holiday season--Mt. Kilimanjaro

2009-12-12T05:00:00.000-08:00

Due to the Christmas and New Years season, I will not be working until January 5th. I am taking this month-long holiday to my advantage to travel, hike, and explore new cities within Tanzania. From December 6th-12th, I hiked Mt. Kilimanjaro!! This experience was physically and mentally challenging. I have gained a new appreciation for mountain peaks, nature, prayer, family and friends, and myself. I can HONESTLY say that each and every one of you were in MY thoughts as I trekked up the Machame Route.

My journey began at Machame Gate on the southwest side of the mountain and ended at Mweka Gate on the southeast base. I hiked with 2 other guys named Brendan (who volunteers for GSC as well) and Mats (a Swedish NGO worker traveling from Kenya). Each hiker had 3 porters to carry our camping and mountain gear. Along with the porters, there were 2 chefs, 1 assistant guide, and 2 chief guides. I could not believe how many people were involved in assisting 1hiker up the mountain!

The Machame Route is also called the "Whisky Route" and is considered a difficult route. . "better suited for more adventurous folks." Unlike the Marangu Route where you sleep in huts, on the Machame Route you sleep in tents. The camping experience definitely had its advantages--I felt more connected with the mountain and only shared a tent with one other hiker. Camping on Kili, however, was extremely different than other outdoor experiences. All of my equipment and supplies were carried by porters and a cook prepared all of my meals. I felt awkward and uncomfortable having people wait on my hand and foot and I made this feeling well-known to the chief guides. By the end of the trip, most of the porters and the 2 chefs were willing to open up and share their stories.

Each day of hiking had its challenges and highlights. On the first day, we experienced the rain forest immediately. We were welcomed to the mountain by a rain storm and surrounded by beautiful banana trees and Colobus monkeys. The hiking was fairly simple (flat and lower altitude level). On Day 2, we hiked to Shira Camp (2,900 meters). We were exposed to the Western Breach which had ice curtains melting on its walls. On this day, I felt minor symptoms from the change in altitude while hiking (i.e., shortness of breath while hiking steeper hills). At the campsite that night, all 3 hikers' spirits were high. We played cards in our dining tent (yes we had a DINING tent) while it rained throughout the night. On Day 3, and after several hours of hiking, we reached Barranco Camp (3,850m). We hiked to a prominent landmark called Lava Tower which is a remnant of Kili's earlier volcanic activity. We arrived at Barranco Camp just in time for sunset! This site is in a valley below the Breach and Great Barranco Walls. Around 7:30am on Day 4, we rock climbed a side of the magnificent Wall (also called the "Breakfast Wall"). This climb was EXTREMELY challenging and was my first time truly experiencing the side effects of altitude sickness. Due to lack of oxygen, I was very dizzy, had shortness of breath, and a horrible stomach ache. The view from the top of this wall was worth all of the negative side effects--we caught the view while the sun was still shining. On this day, we reached Barafu Camp at 4,670 meters. The word Barafu in Swahili means "ice" yet ironically there is no water available at this campsite. Porters were forced to carry a heavy water supply from Karanga Valley to Barafu. This day was a true struggle for all hikers, porters, and guides due to the extreme height. Our campsite, however, had an incredible view of Mt. Mweka. Day 5=SUMMIT day (or night). We began our ascent to the summit at 11:30PM and hiked for 6 hours straight. Unfortunately, Brendan suffered too badly from altitude sickness to reach the summit while Mats fell behind with one of the chief guides.

My journey to the summit was one of the most awakening experiences. I gained a true insight into the physical and mental limits of my body. I hiked with one of the chief guides named Francis (nickname Cheka English translation "laugh"). Over the past 4 days, I had become close to Cheka and felt comfortable and confident having him lead me up the mountain. In the pitch darkness, Cheka and I slowly trekked up the steep and rocky and below freezing route. I followed his footsteps and refused to look up because every time I tried I felt faint. With each step, I felt my mind drift away to my home in America, to my family, to my friends, to my passions in life, to reggae music, to anything other than hiking. I poured water from my frozen camel back water into my Nalgene (which eventually froze as well) and only took small sips along the way. Of course, due to my small bladder, I peed on the trail and exposed myself to Cheka and other hikers (no shame by the end of this trip). I also had extremely painful stomach pains and continuously burped and passed gas during the majority of our trek.

Reaching Stella Point (5,685m) gave me an adrenaline rush and the confidence to reach the summit known as Uhuru peak (5,895m). For some unexplainable reason, my altitude sickness (stomach and head pains) disappeared. Cheka and I sang the Kilimanjaro song and Welcoming song for Tanzania (sung in Swahili) as we trekked from Stella to Uhuru. At 6AM, Cheka and I were the first hikers of the day to reach the top!!! I was surrounded by Godlike glaciers called Rebmann and Ratzel, Mweka Mountain, and was above the clouds. We remained on the summit until 6:30AM for the sunrise. As other hikers arrived, we took a few pictures together, congratulated the other hikers, and headed down. With so much adrenaline and joy running through us, we ran down the mountain and arrived at Barafu Camp in 2 and 1/2 hours. Cheka nicknamed me "Simba" or "lion" because I was the first of my group and the mountain to arrive at the peak. (I guess all of my intense cardio workouts paid off!). Ever since I reached the summit of Kili, I have been on a "natural mystic high" and I am so happy and proud and FORTUNATE. The hike on Day 5 continued after lunch to Mweka Camp (3,100m). Because I was filled with positive energy, I was able to hike down to this camp at a fast and energetic pace. On Day 6, we spent our final morning on Kili and departed for a 3-hour hike down to the base camp (1,800m).

a nurse, a wedding, and teaching

2009-11-30T03:24:00.000-08:00

November and December are two of the busiest months for clinical officers at St. Elizabeths. Doctors begin their work day at 7AM with morning prayer and ward rounds and have full schedules of outpatient procedures and surgeries until late evening. Because most doctors are too busy to breath, I have focused my attention and trainings on the nurses and pharmacists. I have become dear friends with a woman named Alodia. Alodia is a RN who specializes in pregnancies. Like many nurses, Alodia left her home country (Rwanda) to find available work in TZ. Alodia has four children who live in Rwanda with her brother-in-law. After her husband died, Alodia was forced to marry his brother. From what I can gather, the brother is extremely cruel; he forced Alodia to leave her home and children and refuses to support the children's education fees. Due to her situation, Alodia wires all of her earnings (50, 000 TSH per month) to her children's schools and is living in poverty without daily meals or a suitable home. I pray for Alodia and her children every day--for Alodia's health, for her children's safety and education, and for their reunion. Alodia calls me her "first born daughter" and I have truly grown to love her as my surrogate mother. I spend a few hours in her office every day teaching her how to communicate via email with her children. She also is teaching me invaluable lessons about pregnancies, HIV positive mothers and babies, faith, and the strong bond that can never be broken between a parent and their child.

This weekend I attended a wedding for one of the doctors at my hospital. The celebration was held at a night club in Arusha. Like the first wedding, all of the party members were incredibly welcoming and appreciative for my attendance; I congratulated the bride and groom by dancing in a line formation to the podium; I witnessed the serving of the "cake" or goat between the bride and groom. Every wedding, however, is unique. Many doctors and nurses from St. Elizabeths contributed to the cost of the celebration. There were tables and chairs for over 200 guests, an endless supply of food and drinks, a photographer who sold guests' portraits at the end of the wedding, and even a handicap professional dancer (which I found particularly disturbing).

Along with the wedding, I went hiking in a Massai village called Mulala. I hiked with 2 volunteers and 2 guides named Elli and Godfrey. We hiked to Elli's home and ate lunch with his family. I have ventured on excursions with Elli on previous occasions and love his company. He teaches us about various plants and animals and more importantly Massai culture. Elli directly supports his village and other Massai families by taking hikers to Massai homes for lunch. Also, many of the proceeds that Elli earns are donated to Massai cultural heritage.

On Sunday, I learned how to cook chapati! I am so blessed to be working with a man named Tom. He has welcomed me and 1 other volunteer to his home every Sunday to cook an African FEAST and to dance and sing and play the bongo drums. Two of Tom's roommates work for a well-known orphanage in town called St. Jude's. This orphanage was started by an Australian woman and has developed into one of the most unique primary and secondary schools in Arusha. Unlike most TZ schools, St. Jude's offers elective classes like art and music (both of which are taught by Tom's roommates). It also uses SCHOOL buses to transport children to classes every morning.

Speaking of school, I am teaching at a day camp or health club this week. Due to Christmas holiday, many of the students are available during the day time. GSC is taking this free time to their advantage and having me teach a class of 35 students at a secondary school called Lemara. Today was my first day ever teaching alone! Although more energy and effort are exerted, it is rewarding to be the solo provider of information. Tomorrow is World's AIDS Day so day camp will continue on Wednesday. I am excited to work at the stadium tomorrow for the holiday. Hundreds of people (mostly students) will participate in a variety of performances to spread awareness of AIDS.

wedding in Marangu and Chagga Tribe

2009-11-16T22:37:00.000-08:00

This weekend I attended my first African wedding. I could not believe how many similarities and differences there were as compared to a celebration at home. The ceremony took place in a Catholic church; the prayers, offerings, and wedding vows mirrored a Western Catholic church service. The choir, however, sang and prayed with more passion and love for God than I had ever witnessed. I couldn't control my impulse to get up and to pray and sing and dance with these beautiful people. It was a spiritual moment for me--my heart was filled with love for everyone in the church for welcoming and allowing me to be a part of this celebration.

After the church service, there was a band who followed the wedding party to the reception hall. The reception, unlike the service, was completely different from anything I had experienced. The reception was more like a show and a time for the bride and groom to express their appreciation for their extended families. The bride and groom sat on a decorated altar and their families sat on either side. For the guests, there were rows of chairs facing the altar for us to watch the happenings. I should mention that weddings (or at least Chagga weddings) are centered around the groom's family while send-offs are held for the bride's family. Throughout the ceremony, members from the groom's family were honored (e.g., wrapping of the konga on the groom's mama) and were alloted time to give speeches of appreciation to the groom. Also, the groom made a long and meaningful speech to his guests and family. I was humbled when the groom took the time to publicly thank me and the two other volunteers for attending the wedding. I was thinking to myself, "Joseph, we should be thanking YOU for allowing 3 strangers to be included on your special day."

Reception staff included an announcer, a DJ, a person in charge of the portable lighting system, six chefs, and a wedding committee. Each tradition during the reception was performed in a very systematic way--first the bride's family, then the groom's family, then the guests were involved in certain happenings. Two highlights were the offerings of the gifts and feeding of the "cake" or goat. For the gift offering, both sides of the families and the guests brought their presents to the altar. Dancing and holding your gift high in the air was a requirement! Every guest took such pride in their offering and were so happy to provide the newlyweds with their present. Towards the end of the 4-hour long reception, a cooked goat was carried into the hall. The goat, in the Chagga tribe, is a symbol of sacredness and is eaten during monumental celebrations like weddings, send-offs, and confirmations. The bride and groom fed each other goat meat and then proceeded to feed their parents and grandparents.

An incredible buffet of food was served at the end of the reception. I sampled and loved the goat meat. Surprisingly, while the food was being served, there was a crowd of people who arrived to solely eat. So village members, who were not invited to the reception, showed up for their plate of food! After everyone ate, the celebration ended abruptly.

Although the reception had many distinguishable Chagga traditions, westernization was still present. It saddened me to see a fluorescent and rotating light fixture of NYC on the gift table. There were also matching bridesmaid dresses and a best man. Sodas were served to every guest and Celine Dion was played incessantly.

Overall, however, I am so blessed to have been able to witness such a beautiful ceremony. I will never forget the hospitality and appreciation both wedding parties expressed to me for being a part of their tradition.

Marangu, as mentioned, is home of the Chagga Tribe. (Arusha is home of the Masai Tribe). On Sunday, I went to a Chagga Museum. I liked being able to compare tribal traditions and tools. During the 1800s, there was great conflict between the Chagga and Masai people. Masai people relied heavily on pastoring and were nomadic. Chagga people, conversely, fled from Kenya and settled in the Mt. Kili region due to its abundance of lush farming land and other resources. When the Masai arrived in Marangu, they slaughtered the Chagga's livestock and captured the women. As a result, Chagga families slept with their livestock (e.g., cows and chickens) to assure that they would not be killed. Today, many Masai families have Chagga heritage because of the frequent rapings that occurred throughout history.

The Chagga people (esp. the men) LOVE mbege or banana beer. Using the countless banana trees as a source, the tribe brews their own beer. Mbege is a thicker beer and taste similar to a banana smoothie (I liked it!). Also, unlike Masai men, I noticed that Chagga men are more "manly men." They like to sleep in a separate bed from their wife and children. They also spend a lot of time together sipping mbege from the morning to the evening and show more signs of affection toward each other by holding hands and putting their arms around each other.

Marangu Waterfall and misc.

2009-11-11T23:39:00.000-08:00

Last weekend I ventured outside of Arusha city for the first time. Two of my volunteer friends were transferred to a hospital in Marangu (about two hours north of Arusha). By coach bus and daladala, a hiking guide, another volunteer, and I traveled to Marangu. It was one of the most rejuvenating moments stepping off of the daladala in this jungle-like town. There were banana and acacia trees everywhere--just being removed from the business of city-life and surrounded by nature was incredibly therapeutic. Marangu is located at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. It is also the home of the Chagga tribe. Our group hiked all day, stopping to pick guava and avocados along the way to the waterfall. I will be happily returning to Marangu this weekend to attend a wedding ceremony. This town (though 2 hours away) feels like the ideal place to re-center.

Working at St. Elizabeths hospital is extremely rewarding. As I mentioned, there are two Belgian doctors working at the facility until this Friday. They are working for an organization called Medics without vacation. Primarily they came to this hospital to survey what will be needed for future visits. Unfortunately, due to lack of equipment, the doctors are only able to perform tonsil and adnoidectomies. Chronic hearing and eye problems cannot be treated until the future. Because this hospital lacks specialized doctors, the 2 foreign docs want to train the St. Elizabeth staff on how to recognize chronic illnesses. By doing so, the Belgian docs will not have to waste their time on consultations and will have a list of patients to perform surgeries on. Typically, the 2 doctors performed about 6 surgeries per day and also conducted post-operation rounds. Because they are in Arusha for a short period, I spent most of my time translating and interacting with the patients before and after surgeries. I have loved developing relationships with the hospital staff and patients. This experience has made me seriously consider becoming a nurse or MD in the future!

I think the people of Sekei are finally accepting me as a member of their village. Although children still scream "Mzungu!!," adults and kids my age greet me by my name and enjoy talking to me. I have become friends with many of the shopowners and my neighbors. I cooked dinner for my friend Dixon and his family last week. Dixon, my friend Danielle, and I went to Central Market and bought as many vegetables as we could carry home. Although Tanzanians eat a lot of cooked veggies, eating salad is not common. Danielle and I decided to introduce RAW vegetables into Dixon's family's diet. Over a charcoal fire (which is illegal by the way), we cooked rice and peas and vegetables. We also made a salad (minus the lettuce) and bought cooked beans from Dixon's sister Lilly's restaurant. Chopping vegetables and cooking rice without power is quite the experience. Dinner was a success (with plenty of leftovers). One of the babies did not know how to eat raw veggies and started licking the chopped carrots!

Today it is beautiful outside! I am going to spend my day EXPLORING. I am venturing to the craft market to bargain for a birthday present and central market to buy mangos (tis the season!).

I miss you all very much.

St. Elizabeth's Hospital

2009-11-05T04:37:00.000-08:00

This week I started working at St. Elizabeth's Hospital. The hospital was started as a dispensary in 1975 and due to problems in taking care of mothers and children it was found that there was a need to upgrade this dispensary to a hospital in 1984. This is the second largest hospital in Arusha. It has 120 staff, a capacity of 100 beds, and treats both inpatients and outpatients. It is the only hospital in Arusha with an ophthalmologist (taking care of eye surgeries and diseases). The hospital is in great need of IT training to become a "modern hospital."

Over the next 6 weeks, I will be training doctors and nurses on how to use a computer program called Telemedicine. This program provides access to expertise and second opinions in a matter of 24-48 hours and without the complications of patient referral to another institution. So when a doctor has a medical question, s/he can post on their case on Telemedicine and receive an expert opinion shortly after. In order for doctors to become comfortable using this program, I must first teach many of them basic computer skills like typing, using a mouse, and setting up their own email accounts.

Along with the IT portion, I am shadowing the doctors! For the next 2 weeks, there are 2 eyes, nose, and throat Belgium doctors volunteering at the hospital. These 2 doctors are incredible. Yesterday they performed 6 surgeries--removal of tonsils and adnoids for 6 children. I was able to stand in the operating room and watch every operation! I am so grateful for this opportunity (one that most medical students are not given until their 3rd year at university).

Although St. Elizabeth's hospital is one of the largest facilities in Arusha, it lacks medical staff and equipment. The Belgian doctors brought 2 suitcases full of medical supplies. Patients receive little or no medicine for pain. "Special K" is used as an anethestic (which has been outlawed in the States and Europe due to severe side effects). Patients' families must provide food and bedding for their sick family members. Overcrowding is a problem (not enough beds or recovery rooms). There is only one operating room and many doctors are not qualified to perform specialized surgeries. Also, sanitation is of question. Although every person who enters a surgical room must wear scrubs and a mask, doctors tend to walk freely in and out of the operating wing and are not concerned about contamination.

Today hundreds of patients visited the hospital for consultations from the Belgian doctors. All day the 2 doctors had to prioritize people's need for surgery. Most surgeries are performed on children because families prefer their children to receive care first.

Tomorrow there will be 6 more surgeries that I get to witness!

life in Tanzania

2009-10-27T06:08:00.000-07:00

After spending over 2 weeks in Arusha, it is obvious that life is extremely difficult for many TZ citizens.

EDUCATION:
In my opinion, the education system is a complete failure. Children in TZ attend primary school until grade 7. Secondary school (grades 7-12) must be paid for out of pocket. Both public and private secondary schools require families to pay for school uniforms, textbooks, and school supplies. Wealthier families tend to send their children to boarding schools (both private and public). Along with cost, transportation to school is a major issue. Children in rural villages must walk every day (sometimes hours at a time) to attend school. Clearly, the government places very little funding into the education system. Classrooms are overcrowded (40-50 kids per teacher) and teachers are underpaid and not qualified to teach. Children are rarely provided lunch and must sit through a full day of class on empty stomachs.

This week I am teaching sexual education to a classroom of 53 students. In TZ, reproduction and general health lessons are not taught to the students. Many of the 11-14 year olds in my classroom did not know what the act of sex was. Many girls were unaware of what tampons and pads were used for. I love teaching this topic because if I don't educate these students about sexual issues who will? There is nervous but exciting energy in the room. Students were amazed and eager to learn about sexual organs and the basic human anatomy.

Last week I taught a group of women about HIV/AIDS prevention. Many of the women had never used a condom (male or female) so the condom demonstration was extremely helpful for them. One women took a female condom home with her and the next day at training told all her friends how wonderful it was. Condoms in TZ are cheap (1000TSH for 3) because many nonprofits subsidize brands to spead them to the masses. The problem is that people in rural villages are unaware that they even exist.

GENDER ROLES
Although the roles are starting to shift, women are still expected to be caretakers. Infidelity and polygamy are cultural norms for many tribes (example the Masai men practice polygamy). Many husbands who work far distances from Arusha have sexual partners in each city. Wealthier men, who travel to rural villages, pay young girls, who are desperately trying to sell bananas, for a session of sex. HIV quickly spreads and passes from the young girls to the wealthy men to the wives at home. In order for this virus to stop spreading, BEHAVIOR change must happen. Infidelity must STOP and Masai men who do have multiple wives must be tested.

Women or girls who do not have the funds to attend secondary school usually become house girls or servants. All day 14-20 year old girls cook and clean and tend to the house. This role is usually broken after the girl becomes pregnant or finds a husband.

HEALTH:
Like teachers, there is a great shortage of doctors. There is only one cardiologist and 3 pediatricians in TZ! When a patient is in need of heart surgery, doctors must be contacted and imported from other countries. Doctors are not paid enough for their services in TZ so many MDs leave TZ after completing their degree.

POLITICS:
My friend and counterpart Alli attended university in Dar. He told us that in the classroom professors teach them that opposition leaders or members of Parliament that speak out against these issues are killed or threatened. The government owns many safari companies in Arusha. Where does all this money go? It amazes me how little funding the government places in fundamental systems like education and health. Education, health, and job opportunities are all interconnected. If children were given the opportunity to be educated, serious issues and diseases would be prevented.

In Arusha, many boys walk aimlessly around town begging or trying to sell trinkets to tourists. Many dream of attending guide school (which also costs money) but most fall into the trap of drug abuse and lives filled with no aspirations or motivation. It depresses me every day to see the same group of guys hanging out by Clock Tower. At first I attempted to be friends with them but I have unfortunately learned that most are only after money not genuine friendship.

GREETINGS:
Although these serious issues affect almost every TZ, there is still a liveliness and vibrant energy in Arusha. People are open and happy and smiling and friendly. Everyone talks to everyone. On my 30 minute walk to town, I always talk to at least one or two new people. At first it was overwhelming but I have grown to love being constantly stimulated. I am never alone and I am learning from people constantly.

SIEKE:
This is the name of my village. I LOVE SIEKE!! I have discovered a river tucked behind my village. There are banana trees and beautiful fields to lay in along the water. People come to this sanctuary to bath or wash clothes or play football. I have befriended my neighbor named Dixon. His family grows hopps for mbege or banana beer. His father and brother died a few years back from illness so Dixon is the "man of the house." Dixon's family is financially struggling. His mom, however, welcomed me and 3 other volunteers with open arms and cooked us an extravagant meal. I felt so guilty eating her food but she wanted us to feel welcome in her home.

arrival in Arusha

2009-10-19T04:49:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone! Sorry for not posting sooner. Orientation week was extremely busy--introductions, tour of beautiful Arusha, home based care and sustainable gardening visits, training information on HIV/AIDS prevention, etc. As of now, there are 6 other volunteers that are involved with GSC. I am living in a village that is a 10 min walk to the center of the city. Mama Elly is my home stay mother and she has a daughter named Einot who attends boarding school and a house girl (essentially a maid) named Vanessa. Vanessa is 20 years old and can only speak Swahili. Although communication is difficult, we have managed to form a friendship through the Swahili-English dictionary and our love for the same music.

This week I have started teaching HIV/AIDS prevention for a village 30 minutes outside of Arusha. Attendance today was low but tomorrow we are going to recruit more people to join our seminar by speaking to village leaders in the morning.

Greetings in Tanzania are extremely important and this has helped me practice and learn Swahili. There are specific greetings for elders, children, friends, and strangers. Everyone says hello to everyone with such excitement and happiness. It is impossible to walk down the road and not say "Mambo" or "Hatujambo" or "Shikamoo" to someone you see.

Arusha is a beautiful and vibrant city. Over the weekend, I started to explore the area. In touristy areas like the Clock Tower locals try to sell "mzungu" or foreigners trinkets and paintings. I quickly learned the expression "hapana asante" or "no thank you" but I still ended up introducing myself to many locals and have started to form friendships with the kids who hang out around town.

Although every day is market day, Wednesdays and Saturdays are the busiest times. Hundreds of shops sell fresh produce, handmade jewelry, fabrics, and crafts. When I went to the food market on Saturday, a guy named Erick befriended me and introduced me to several of the owners.

Mt . Meru, which is the second highest peak in Tanzania, is located on the outskirts of town. On Sunday, I hiked to Mt. Meru's waterfalls with other volunteers and a guide. In December, I want to hike to the summit which will take about 3 or 4 days.

Sorry that this post is all over the place. I have so much to say and so little time on this computer.

I love you all.

Tutoanno Kesho,
Jenna

Hello family and friends

2009-10-04T12:52:00.000-07:00

After several requests, I have decided to create a blog for my 8-month volunteer experience in Tanzania. I depart on Friday, October 9th and will arrive in Arusha the following day. I hope that this blog will give you a taste of my life overseas. I love you all very much and look forward to sharing my experiences with you!