Mt. Meru

Over the Easter holiday, I hiked Mt. Meru with Jon, Brian, Gideon, Frenk, and Mtui Tanzania Expeditions.We hiked with Mtui company   Mt. Meru is the fifth highest mountain in Africa, reaching 4,562m (14,980ft) in height and is located 70km west of Mt. Kilimanjaro (which is visible on a sunny day). Meru is an active volcano with many visible craters, cones, and lava remnants on its slopes. While Arusha National Park is located at the base of the mountain, Mt. Meru's lush forests provide shelter to over 400 wildlife species, including buffalo and leopards! Due to the dangerous wildlife, hikers are required to hire an armed mountain ranger to lead them on Momella Route of Mt. Meru.

The month of April is considered the start of the rain season in Tanzania. Needless to say, our hiking experience was a WET ONE. The majority of our trekking was completed in the POURING rain; we used large umbrellas, rain gear, and lodges for sleeping to keep us dry and warm. I enjoyed listening to the raindrops hit my umbrella. Hiking in the rain allowed me to escape into my own world and reflect about my time in Tanzania and all those in my life who I would have loved to have by my side on the journey.

The first day of hiking started in Arusha National Park (1,500m). Gideon, the assigned mountain ranger, took us on a walking safari! Jon, Brian, and I crept slowly in the meadows, while witnessing herds of buffalo, giraffes, and zebras live in harmony in their natural habitat. We then hiked to the Mt. Meru waterfall that was used by WaMeru pregnant mothers to cleanse and give birth. The hiking then continued into the overcast Meru forest. The afternoon rain shower produced an eerie atmosphere--there was mist, little sun, and silence. We reached the first camp, Miriakamba, (2,500m) late afternoon. The group rested in lodges that were solar powered!

Day two of hiking was in the moorland of Meru. Due to the significant amount of buffalo, we had to be careful not to step in the buffalo dung that was found on Momella every five meters. Luckily, Meru rangers built wooden steps on steeper terrain so avoiding buffalo dung was not an issue. Saddle camp (3,500m) also provided lodges to its hikers. At the campsite, I felt the effects of high altitude--stomach cramps, headache, dizziness, etc. We rested all day to prepare for our summit hike.

Like Mt. Kilimanjaro, hikers tend to summit Mt. Meru at sunrise. We left at 1:30AM with our headlamps, warm weather gear, and water. Although there were heavy rains for the past two days of hiking, on summit night only the bright moon and stars were present in the sky! Miraculously, there was NO rain for the ENTIRE summit hike. The terrain leading to the summit, unlike the Mt. Kilimanjaro summit hike, was steep and rocky. Using the moonlight and our headlamps, we slowly climbed up, down, and across giant pieces of dried lava. We reached Rino Point (3,800m) earlier than expected so we took a break for pictures and snacks. The hike continued and seemed everlasting due to the intense climbing. When we arrived close to the summit, it was only 5:30AM so we were forced to huddle under a rock to stay warm until sunrise (one hour later). While everyone slept, I took the time to remove wet layers and enjoy being above the clouds. We reached Mt. Meru summit (4,562m) in time to witness the sky slowly change from dark to light. On Socialist Peak (the summit), there is little wind, snow, and freezing conditions. Our group was able to remain on the summit drinking tea and taking photos.

Selela and RISE UP AFRICA

SELELA

First of all, I want to apologize for not blogging sooner. Two weeks ago the GSC team camped and trained in a village called Selela. Selela is located one hour south of Engaruka (the village we worked at during the beginning of February). Like Engaruka, Selela is home to the Maasai people. There are hundreds of Maasai bomas (constructed from cow dung and mud) and lush farms that occupy Selela. Unlike Engaruka, however, Selela receives a plentiful amount of water from the Ngorongoro Crater so villagers can happily farm and live sustainable lives. Also, it rained in Selela for the first time in 2 years so the land was that much more rich of nutrients!

Throughout the week, I trained HIV/AIDS prevention to a community group in the morning and reproductive health to a primary school class in the afternoon. Unfortunately, the community group expected to be paid for attending our training sessions because NGOs who taught in Selela did so in the past. It was very difficult to convince villagers to attend our week-long training without pay and to justify GSC's reasons for not paying them (lack of funds, intention of teaching, etc.). Attendance from Monday to Tuesday plummeted from 25 to 10 trainees. GSC does not face this problem in villages closer to Arusha or at schools so it was a new challenge for me to encounter and solve.

HOME IN ARUSHA

Last week, I returned to Rise Up Africa to teach "life skills" to the same group of 24 Burundi refugees girls. (I taught HIV prevention/reproduction at Rise Up the week prior to camping in Selela). Coincidentally, a prior GSC volunteer founded Rise Up but Tanzanian staff members currently operate the NGO. Rise Up is an orphanage specifically for refugee women. Last year, 24 girls were rescued by a Catholic priest in Burundi and taken to this haven. Rise Up provides these girls shelter and teaches them vocation skills such as cooking, cleaning, sewing and basic education (e.g., history, English, Bible, etc.). Unfortunately, like many small NGOs, Rise Up is severely lacking in funds. The girls have to study in a dark classroom without desks or electricity. In addition, their diet consists of ugali and a small portion of cooked vegetables for every meal. Each day, the girls wake up at 5AM for Morning Prayer and chores. They are responsible for cooking their own meals and completing their daily tasks that take place until evening. Due to these extreme circumstances, I found it difficult to effectively train the girls during what would have been their 4-hour break (9am-1pm).

During my first week of training, their situation became blatantly apparent when 6 of the 24 students fell asleep in the classroom on the first day. Knowing their level of exhaustion I used many techniques to keep them awake (i.e., breaking every hour for singing and dancing, providing chai and chapati, using interactive teaching methods like group activities and games). I felt so bad keeping the girls trapped in the classroom during their scheduled leisure time. Therefore, when GSC assigned Tom, Kristy, and I to teach life skills at RISE UP we were thoroughly opposed; the girls were not engaged during our previous week-long training (rightfully so) and they were trained in life skills EVERY DAY.

On my first day of teaching, I attempted to obsequiously follow GSC's assignment. I stood in front of the classroom and lectured about healthy relationships for one hour. This was the longest hour of teaching--heads bobbing and lack of participation or enthusiasm. After a chai break, I threw my lesson plan away and asked the girls what they wanted to do during our time spent together; this was the best decision that I have ever made as a teacher. The girls desperately wanted to exercise, learn English, and make jewelry. For the rest of the week, we spent our time playing football, teaching English, and making beaded earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. The vibe of the classroom quickly changed to positivity, liveliness, and eagerness to learn.

On Tuesday, we spent our time at a football field near the girls' home. Before our game started, the girls changed out of their suffocating uniforms and put on whatever leisure clothes they owned (the majority of girls were forced to still play in their uniform skirts). We scrimmaged on a field full of acacia thorns so the two balls quickly deflated! So after a short-lived game of football, we played various field games like spider web and red rover. The girls then invited us to stay for lunch. I learned how to cook and stir a giant pot of ugali! After lunch, we decided to stay at the girls' home until the afternoon rain passed. One girl named Dorcus played a bongo drum while the rest of us danced and sang inside their bedroom. I watched in amazement as the girls shook their hips while keeping their upper bodies completely still. Of course the only dance move that I could offer was the hitchhiker but I think they appreciated my god-awful rhythm and silliness. Between playing and spending time at their home, I think a barrier between student and teacher was broken on Tuesday. For the rest of the week, the girls were free. They laughed, asked me questions, shared stories about their lives, and looked forward to our time spent together. Luckily on Wednesday, we found a football field that was void of acacia thorns. Furthermore, we decided to teach English outside at their home instead of on the RISE UP campus. By doing so, the girls were able to remain in their comfortable clothes and be outside in the shade. On Thursday and Friday, we made beaded jewelry on a tarp outside of the classroom. Jewelry making is a useful skill because it can provide the girls with a source of income!

My week of teaching at RISE UP was extremely rewarding. I developed relationships with each student and plan on returning to the school during April. (I befriended the headmaster Norbert who informed me that I am welcome to teach the girls any time!).

Engaruka

I joined the GSC team in Engaruka for 2 weeks. This village is located 4 hours Southeast of Arusha in the foothills of the Rift Valley. Engaruka is home to the Maasai pastoralists and Somalian farmers. For 3 weeks in February, GSC volunteers trained BIA to farmer groups during the morning and HIV/reproduction health to a primary school in the afternoon.

WEEK ONE:

Teaching

During my first week in Engaruka, I trained over 30 Maasai villagers about sustainable agriculture. Unfortunately, after the first day it was apparent that none of these villagers used farming methods for survival. Unlike previous trainings, our Engaruka students showed little interest or enthusiasm in learning gardening techniques. During the practical sessions, the GSC volunteers constructed the majority of the compost and double dug beds while our students observed from afar. The Maasai in Engaruka (unlike in Arusha) practice traditional customs; they are pastoralists, NOT farmers. Maasai rely heavily on cattle for food, dowry, and income. Therefore, in the rare occasion that Maasai decide to farm, they use the crops solely for income and not for their own nutrition. Every day Maasai mamas spread their vegetables (mostly small tomatoes and onions) on the dirt road in the village center. Similarly, every Monday and Thursday mamas from surrounding villages would travel to Engaruka in attempt to sell their meager amount of fruits and vegetables.

The highlight of my first week was teaching Reproduction Health to a classroom of primary school students. I taught the same group of students for 2 consecutive weeks (first week about reproduction and second week about HIV). My classroom became an open forum. Although I used the lesson plan as a guideline, I spent the majority of my time answering questions that students did not feel comfortable asking their parents or teachers. Most of the students who attend Engaruka Juu Primary School are orphans (over 100 students board) and, as a result, turn to their peers for insight about sexuality. Throughout the week, I clarified and ended several rumors about sex and reproduction. Students were eager to learn (while laughing) and wanted me to stay longer each day. I loved ending our class with singing and dancing--who knew that the Macarena would be so well loved.

Camping

We camped at Moses Campground in Engaruka Juu. The site is located at the base of the Rift Valley among Maasai bomas. A Maasai boma or Maasai home is constructed of cow dung and sticks. The bomas tend to be temporary shelters until the cattle are ready to be herded to a new location.

Camping in Engaruka was one of the most beautiful experiences (excluding the 106 degree heat). A Maasai man named Israel was the director of the site. Over the 2 weeks, he took us on hiking excursions into the Valley. (We were not allowed to hike without a guide due to the lions, buffalos and hyenas that resided in the mountains). Along with guiding, Israel and his wife cooked dinners for our team. Since most of us enjoyed vegetables that they were not used to cooking, we took the initiative to cook our own dinners periodically.

During our camping excursions, I share a tent with 3 other girl volunteers. I think I have mastered sleeping on a thin pad, packing the bear essentials, using a headlamp after 7PM, defecating in a hole, and showering in the dark.

Slaughtering

Every Thursday, Engaruka Chini has a livestock market. Maasai villagers herd their goats and cows for miles to sell them in Chini. Our team purchased a goat to kill and cook for dinner! At our campsite, Israel used his Maasai machete or panga to slit the goat's throat. Although I was not a fan of the goat meat, I like the taste of a medicinal tea that consisted of boiled goat blood/remnants and plants.

Weekend

Over the weekend, our team visited Lake Natron and an active volcano called Ol Doinyo Lengai or "Mountain of God." Lake Natron is a flamingo-breeding center (both greater and lesser flamingos present) due to the alkaline and shallow water. Thousands of bright pink feathers outlined the lake as the sun set at Natron. Lengai is the only active sodium carbonate volcano in the world (3450 meters). Like Mt. Kilimanjaro, most hikers climb this peak at midnight due to the blinding sun and heat. Last year, villages surrounding Lengai were forced to evacuate due to a major eruption. People suffered due to the massive death toll of cattle and farmlands being destroyed. Needless to say, our organization believed that it was too great of a liability to allow our team to hike the volcano.

WEEK 2:

Teaching

After our first week of teaching BIA, the message was spread to Engaruka villagers that they would not be paid for our training sessions. Unlike GSC, other NGOs pay their participants to attend training sessions. I feel that this recruiting method is ineffective and hindering to other non-profits. By using money instead of knowledge as the incentive, villagers fail to implement the skills learned. As a result, only 4 people participated in our training. Initially, I was extremely frustrated with the turnout of our classroom but as the training proceeded I realized that this group was present for the sole purpose of learning. Unlike our students during the first week, these students were more than willing to help make compost and beds. They asked questions and were on time for every training event. With such a small class, I was able to develop close relationships and tailor the training sessions to each of their needs. At the end of the week, we all exchanged mailing addresses and I was offered a plot of land!

Like BIA, there were many challenges while teaching HIV prevention to the primary school. Unfortunately, the headmaster did not want condom use or birth control to be mentioned in our lesson plan. How do you effectively teach students about HIV prevention without mentioning the word condom!? Additionally, why was I allowed to speak about sex and reproduction freely the previous week but be restricted in what I teach about the following week? To make matters worse, we were forced to cut and mark out pages of the GSC booklets that were given to the students. While teaching prevention, students inevitably inquired about condom use and told us that other NGOS had demonstrated how to use them!

Condoms in Engaruka?

After dealing with this complicated situation at the school, I was curious about the prevalence of condom use among Maasai. Shockingly, condoms are not sold at the stores in the village center! In Maasai culture, polygamy is heavily practiced. Typically, the men that I met in Engaruka had at least 2 wives. Concurrent relationships and lack of condom use is a deadly combination for the spread of HIV. Furthermore, villagers in Engaruka do not trust the condoms that occasionally are sold at the stores due to their well-overdue expiration dates.

Reproduction

For Maasai, reproducing children is a top priority. Before a couple gets married, the woman must breed a healthy newborn. If there are problems with infertility or the newborn is unhealthy, the man will refuse the woman's hand in marriage. It is common for a close relative or friend to give their newborn away to an infertile woman so she can marry.

Walk and talk and love

I love to wonder. Every day after work I ventured into town alone or with a volunteer. Walking exposed me to more homes, people, and cornfields. I spent my time speaking to villagers about daily life in Engaruka--their informal education, marriage and family life, being a pastoralists, their means for water and nutrition, the harmful effects of global warming etc.

One day, similar to the situation in Ngurdoto, Harry (GSC staff) and I were trapped in a rainstorm. We were welcomed into a Maasai boma by a mama and her children until the storm passed. How will I leave this beautiful country and these beautiful people?

Engaruka

Hello!

I will be camping in a Maasai village called Engaruka for 2 consecutive weeks. Engaruka is 6 hours away from Arusha and 1 hour away from Lake Natron. I will not have access to internet or phone, but I will continue write and I will share my thoughts when I return.

I miss you all very much!

Mbolea!

This week our team returned to Ngurdoto for HIV prevention and bio-intensive agriculture (BIA) training. While two of the volunteers lead a prevention class, I was the only counterpart teaching sustainable agriculture. Javeson (one of the GSC staff members) and I provided farmers with an in-depth lesson plan about BIA. Our classroom was nestled in the cornfields in a cement church building that overlooked Mt. Meru and Mt. Kilimanjaro.

As I had mentioned before, my favorite aspect of SA is being able to apply the lessons taught in the classroom to the field. On the third day, we constructed a double dug bed that was 6 x 1.5 meters. In order to make a double dug bed, farmers must dig 1 foot of top soil, a second foot of sub-soil, and a third foot must be loosened. It may be hard to picture but this trench is massive! After digging three feet or 1.5 meters, farmers place the sub-soil back into the trench and then add manure or compost onto the sub-soil. This step is repeated for the topsoil layer. The double-dug bed in its final stages has a semi-circle tubular shape that allows for increased number of plants per unit area. The ultimate goal of double digging is to produce a "living sponge-cake" in the soil (produced by the soil-manure combination). Double dug beds improve soil moisture retention, air circulation, promote plant growth, and control soil erosion. Additionally, these beds have a lifespan of three years! If anyone is interested in forming her/his own double dug bed feel free to email me and I will provide you with detailed information. I highly suggest this method for growing your own fresh vegetables!

MBOLEA (Manure)

During the construction of the double dug bed, babas and kakas (fathers and sons) shoveled soil while mamas and dadas (mothers and sisters) carried buckets of manure from a farm on a hill to the farming site. While Javeson lead the digging, I helped women rake and carry mbolea from the home. These women were surprised by my physical strength and, as a result, nicknamed me "dada Africa." As we carried the buckets, farming songs were sung in unison. I was eager to learn the songs and move with the African rhythm. Shoveling manure, with only women by my side, made me profoundly respect the strength of African mamas who assume the roles of farmers, caregivers, and household keepers. With all of these duties, there is a mutual understanding between the women that farming plots (like the double dug beds) can be shared as a community. There is a widespread saying in Kiswahili termed "Tuko pamoja" or "We are all one." Ngurdoto farmers clearly apply this phrase to their way of life.

Offering Gifts

After constructing a double dug bed, I felt deeply connected to my class. The practical portion allowed me to interact with farmers informally. I became a Maasai babu's adopted granddaughter, a friend of the dadas, and individual teacher to the babas. Throughout the week, I took several photos and printed copies for each member in the class. They were all amazed by the abilities of the digital camera and appreciated my photos. On the last day of class, all of the women left the church and re-entered while singing the offering of the gift song and each holding a present for me! Tears filled up in my eyes as I saw mamas carrying sacks of beans and corn, bags of pineapple, mango and eggs, and two freshly cut banana trees! Peter, one of the village leaders, then delivered a written speach thanking Javeson and me for our teaching sessions. I found out later that this was the first time that Ngurdoto had a non-profit travel to their village to deliver farming training! Fortunately, we return to this village at the end of the month for follow-up training so I will be able to re-visit the compassionate, thoughtful, and kind people of Ngurdoto.

Ngurdoto

VILLAGE LIFE
This week our Sustainable Agriculture team camped in a village called Ngurdoto. The village is located 20km away from Arusha and is divided into 5 sub-villages. Kati, the town center and where our team camped, consisted of two small shops, two local bars, a "bus" stop and a produce stand. Ngurdoto was not touristy or busy. Camping in this village was the first time that I had felt completely removed from Western culture and immersed in Tanzanian life. Everyone in the village was extremely welcoming and curious about our group. Unlike Arusha, children greeted volunteers by saying "Shikamo" instead of "Mambo." Politeness and respect were widespread. People spent time after work socializing in the town center--children, adults, and elders all sat together laughing and loving each other. Men played checkers and pool while women cooked and sat at the shops. To join the social hour, our group introduced Frisbee to Kati. We threw the Frisbee in a circle that consisted of 3 volunteers and 10 locals. Everyone present in the town center crowded around the Frisbee circle to watch this activity. People of all ages were very amused and delighted to watch. Mamas and dadas seemed too bashful to play but children and adult males were all about Frisbee playing.

CHICKENS
Our team consisted of 5 volunteers (Mary-Ellen, Brendan, Gabbie, Kristy, and me), 5 GSC staff members (Somme, Crispan, Harry, Javeson, and Tom), and 4 community leaders who GSC trained throughout the week. Our program this week involved vaccinating chickens against New Castle disease; this illness is the most prevalent and deadly among chickens in TZ. GSC uses a vaccination called I-2. This medicine requires a cool environment and one drop must be placed into the chicken, rooster, or chick-let's eye. In order to keep the medicine cool, each group wrapped a wet konga (or cloth) around the bottle and placed it into a whisk basket.

From 6AM to 10AM, our team split up into smaller groups to vaccinate chickens in one of the 5 sub-villages. Vaccinations occur early in the morning because families have not let the chickens out of their coup so it takes less effort to catch the fast-running animals. I was fortunate enough to work with Crispan (the director of SA), David (the town mayor), Peter (a village leader), and Kristy. The majority of our mornings included walking in the corn fields to homes, educating farmers about I-2, and dropping the vaccination into the chickens' eyes. At each home, a community leader recorded how many chickens were vaccinated, how many died, how many were eaten, and how many were sold. Upon completion, we all reconvened in a church to discuss challenges and questions. Javeson provided further information to the community leaders about the disease and strategies for sustainability.

I loved the process of vaccinating chickens! Before entering every home, it is polite to say "Hodi" or "May I enter." Then, it is important to say "Shikamo" to all elders and greet children. My Kiswahili has improved over the past few months so after the initial greeting I was able to interact with family members (particularly mamas and dadas) at each home. Along with socializing, I loved snatching the chickens and vaccinating them. At one home, I vaccinated 129 chickens!! The estimated cost of a single chicken is around 2,000TSH. Many times farmers sell the eggs or chickens to the larger markets for profit. The vaccination PREVENTS chicken death and supports families' income!

WALKING
After lunch every day I walked around the village. On the first day, Mary-Ellen and I walked and walked and walked and ended up getting completely lost. Villagers were more than willing to direct us. One dada climbed up a tree and picked 3 mangoes for us to eat on our long journey back to our campsite. Another day we walked until a rainstorm struck the village. When the intensity of the storm increased, we were immediately welcomed into people's homes. We ended up sitting at a home with a mother named Judith and her two sons. Judith, who appeared to be in her early 2os, was more than accommodating. She served us hot pouridge with sugar and insisted on us staying until the storm subsided. After the storm passed, it took every ounce of energy for me not to cry. This family offered me everything that they could possibly provide (shelter, food, kindness). I will be forever grateful to have experienced this kind of humanity.

Overall, my experience in Ngurdoto made me realize the potential for a close-knit community. Although poverty and illness and lack of education are widespread, people LOVE, RESPECT, and CARE for each other while using the earth's resources for survival.

sustainable agriculture (SA)

This past week I started the sustainable agriculture program. The majority of our training sessions will be taking place in villages outside of Arusha. Last week, our SA team and a group of 30 nurses who are volunteering for GSC for the month of January, camped out in Mto wa Mbu (literal translation River of Mosquitoes!). Mto wa Mbu is 150km away from the city and borders Manyara Park. The village is somewhat touristy because many safari companies stop for a night on their way to the Crater and the Serengeti. Store vendors sold typical tinga tinga paintings and Maasai carvings, while mamas sold bundles of RED and yellow bananas. Fortunately, we camped about 1km away from the village center in a family's backyard. The family consisted of 5 lively children who loved to sing bongo flava mixes, dance, and play games. Our campsite at night transformed into our classroom during the day. Every morning, Brendan, Mary-Ellen, and I taught brief SA lessons to a group of 30 farmers, while Javeson (one of the SA experts) proceeded to expand and translate our points.

GSC promotes bio-intensive agriculture (BIA). This is a special form of organic farming which is rooted in maintaining sustainable soil fertility by use of "compost." Compost is produced by resource materials grown/found on farms. BIA is a chemical free form of farming which discourages use of chemical sprays and artificial fertilizers. It is a method of raising crops which is cost conscious, simple to learn, and based on scientific technology. There are 6 components of BIA, including: compost making and its utilization, deep land preparation by double digging, plant diversity/companion planting, natural solution against plant pests/diseases, close plant spacing, and maintenance of natural seeds. The 6 topics are taught over a 5-day period.

In addition to teaching farmers, there is a practical portion of our lesson. Farmers are able to apply what they have learned in the classroom setting to the field. With the guidance of the GSC staff and volunteers, farmers practice making compost, a double-dug bed, and sack gardens. The farmers of Mto wa Mbu were eager and enthusiastic to apply what they learned in the classroom to the field. They enjoyed working together as a team to construct the compost and double-dug bed. At the end of the week, they expressed interest in organizing a community farming group among themselves! As part of the program, GSC will return to Mto wa Mbu in 3-months for a follow-up session. I have faith that these farmers will continue practicing the sustainable methods due to their heightened enthusiasm and willingness to change.

As a SA volunteer, I prefer the practical portion of the experience because I am able to actively provide a service and I am far from an expert on this subject so teaching feels like a daunting task. Ultimately, for the next few weeks I hope to participate in as a much mindless, physical labor as possible!

One of the highlights from Mto wa Mbu was building a sack garden for a HIV positive mother. Somme, a nurse volunteer, and I traveled to her home and taught her how to make/use this versatile garden. The mama and her children will now be provided with sustainable nourishment for 3 consecutive farming seasons due to the sack!

A sack garden is a farming alternative used in areas where there is a lack of land/water or by farmers who are too weak/sick to maintain large farms. To make a sack garden, a sack must be filled with a compost-top soil mixture. After filling the sack with 2 buckets of the mixture, a pole is placed in the center of the sack. The center stick's main purpose is to evenly distribute the water throughout the sack. After the sack is full with the mixture, the center stick is removed and gravel and water are placed in the cylinder-like center. For the completion of the sack garden, a farmer must make small slits along the outside of the sack for planting seeds. These slits are made in a triangle pattern for optimal growth. The sack garden can grow leafy vegetables such as Chinese cabbage and smaller vegetables such as carrots. Potatoes, tomatoes, and other larger vegetables are not suitable for a sack garden because their bodies are too heavy.

Kendwa and Nungwi

After spending a night in Stonetown, we traveled one hour north to Kendwa and Nungwi. Both villages are known for their beaches and touristy atmosphere. In Nungwi, I befriended the owner of a small hotel and later returned to his accommodation at the end of our trip. The Nungwi hotel was an ideal getaway in paradise--hammocks overlooking the Indian Ocean, stretches of endless beach, a fire pit, and freshly prepared meals of our choice. We called this hotel a hidden treasure due to its friendly staff (who treated us like family) and its tranquility, set a part from busy downtown Nungwi.

Every day in paradise, I walked into the villages to buy fruit, eat cheaper local meals, and talk to residents. Like other resort destinations, the contrast between the wealthy and poor was stunningly apparent and disturbing. Many locals are jobless and spend their days sitting at shaded shops. Job opportunities are limited in Zanzibar due to poor education and limited foresight of future. Many Zanzibarians solely rely on agriculture for survival. They farm every day in their villages and do not travel to other areas of the island. Lack of travel means lack of exposure and experience. Lack of travel is obvious due to the fact that there are no cars on the Zanzibarian roads with the exception of taxis. Ultimately, extreme poverty exists everywhere on this island. Locals are struggling to survive, while tourists are enjoying the comforts of their hotel and Zanzibar's immaculate beaches.

electrical problems

The ferry arrived in Stonetown around 7PM. We decided to stay in a cheap guesthouse called the Haven. The owner of the house charged us $15 per night for 2 beds, mosquito nets, and bucket showers. He then informed us of the electrical situation on the island. Unfortunately, for the months of December and January, Zanzibar did not and still does not have electricity. The Zanzibarian government claims that there is only one electrician who is capable of fixing the country's power outage and that this electrician is on holiday in the Netherlands until the end of January. This means that posh hotels, restaurants, and businesses must operate using generators for water supply and other amenities. It did not take long to realize that the Zanzibarians were suffering due to this major problem. Without power, there is no running water. Locals must therefore rely on city wells and pay 500TSH per bucket of water. WATER=LIFE and many locals do not have enough money to constantly be paying for a daily supply.

During my time spent in Zanzibar, it amazed me that people somehow managed to survive given their severe circumstances. I just cannot believe that a government would allow its citizens to suffer for such a long time in the grueling heat. An electrical outage, like the current situation, occurred during the months of June and July 2009. It is obvious that Zanzibarians are becoming fed up with the government's laissez-faire approach.

Mtae-->Zanzibar

Wow, what a day for traveling! Mary Ellen and I started our day at 3:30AM on the Fasaha bus from Mtae to Lushoto. The ride was twisty and turning and bumpy. We then bought I.T. "luxury" bus tickets for 8AM to Dar es Saalam. We had one hour to pack our remaining clothes from the tourist office, eat breakfast, and board the bus. Unlike our voyage from Arusha to Lushoto, this bus line stopped several times throughout the 7-hour journey. Fortunately, before departing for Dar, Aggrey (our hiking guide from Lushoto) gave us the contact of his friend who sells ferry tickets to Zanzibar. We called the friend and used this contact to our advantage! We arrived in Dar around 3:30PM and the last ferry took off at 4PM!! We hopped in a taxi with Aggrey's friend and raced to the coastline. When we arrived at the ferry station, 6 Tanzanian men surrounded our taxi and told us to "HURRY UP" and purchase transport tickets. We frantically threw our money and passports at the workers and ran onto the boat. With the help from Aggrey and his friend and a bit of good fortune on our side, we made the afternoon ferry to Zanzibar.

traveling with Mary Ellen (Lushoto, Rangwi, Mtae)

My traveling adventures commenced on December 19th and proceeded until January 5th. We started our journey in the Usambara Mountains in a village called Lushoto. After departing Arusha at 5AM, we crammed into a minibus and drove for 8 1/2 hours. We stopped one time for a bathroom break on the side of the road and many times to pick up passengers. Overall, the bus system in Tanzania is very unorganized and hectic--ticket prices fluctuate depending on the passenger, departures are never on time, vendors desperately try to sell biscuits, water, and random trinkets, and fruit at every stop, and many times there are 3 if not 4 people sharing seats designed for 2 people. As we approached Lushoto, the contrast of colors amazed me; mamas sold fresh plums and guava, palm trees were planted at the base of the rocky mountains while lush farmlands surrounded the bus route. The road leading up to Lushoto is crevessed in the mountains and is a steep uphill climb into town.

Upon arrival, we were instantly greeted by tourist workers and asked to visit the Cultural Tourism Center. Lushoto's tourism industry was developed in the 1990s and has been a blossoming industry ever since. There are many tourist options, including cycling, hiking, tasting cheese and rye bread from a farm, etc. Mary Ellen and I decided to arrange a 3-day hike to a small village called Mtae which is on the western side of the Usambara Mountains.

We began our hike from Lushoto to Rangwi. We hiked uphill and through a forest to a road. Due to the scorching heat, we waited for a bus to take us to the village. In Rangwi, we explored and spoke to villagers. The majority of people here are farmers and rely on harvesting cabbage, corn, and beans for income and survival. Along with Rangwi villagers, 60 percent of the Usambara region is Muslim while 40 percent are Catholic. On the first day of hiking, it was the Islamic New Year! Muslim men, women, and children happily danced and paraded and sang and celebrated their holiday in the streets of Rangwi. What a vibrant time!

The second day of hiking was spent in many different terrains but my favorite time was hiking through a pine tree forest. We spoke to lumberers and children who balanced and carried bundles of timber on their heads. Adults and children sell, transport, carry, and chop timber and export the wood to Dar, Mtae and other Usambara villages. As we left the forest, many children carrying timber on their heads approached me with curiosity. I taught them a song called "Boom chicka boom" and we chanted it together while trekking down the path. There are so many colors in Mtae between the landscape and bright kongas found on mamas and children.

On this day, we also visited a traditional healer. The healer deals with minor illnesses such as stomach pains and malaria. I asked him many questions about his abilities and his opinions about Western medicine (which he supports). He also informed us about witch doctors who are similar to healers but curse those they come in contact with. The healer performed a spiritual ritual for Mary Ellen. He smeared black coal on her body and repeated prayers and chants. He believed that these acts would protect her from bad spirits. It was a mystical experience and I would have loved to spend more time at his home to witness traditional healings.

Serengeti National Park

After hiking Kilimanjaro, I was hesitant to go on a 4-day safari because the thought of sitting in a land cruiser seemed sedentary and indolent. Unexpectedly, I absolutely loved camping in the middle of the wilderness for 3 nights listening to the cries of the hyenas and mischievous bamboos. Philbert, my safari guide and friend, is the most enthusiastic and passionate person. He made each game drive exciting and educational. At the entrance of the Serengeti, we spotted an injured lion and a baby zebra following a safari land cruiser for protection! The following day, I witnessed the hunting of a zebra by a male lion who tracked his prey from a sausage tree. I saw an elephant stuck in a fresh water hippo pond, a cheetah resting under a kopjes (large rock), herds of elephants and buffalo, baboons, reed bucks and water bucks, hyenas, hyrax (cousin of elephant), zebras, leopards. . . so many animals! It is hard to believe that in only 4 days I was able to be among many species in their natural habitat.

The Serengeti is the first an largest national park. It was established in 1951 and is 14,763 sq kilometers (larger than Connecticut!). It protects the wild beast migration and is considered a World Heritage site. There are 28 hoofed animal species and 530 bird, plant, and insect species. In Tanzania, 25 percent of its land is considered protected area. There are 11 National Parks within the nation.

During our safari experience, we briefly visited the stunningly beautiful Lake Manyara and the Ngorongoro Crater. The Crater is considered to be a conservation area in Tanzania. The Maasai have designated bomas to live in at Ngorongoro. The government is using a Community Based Conservation approach; they believe in the empowerment of rural Maasai communities to sustain, manage, and use natural resources. This approach seems to mirror the Western strategy of Indian reservations. Indigenous tribes are forced to live on a designated plot of land and are expected to succeed.

When we visited the shamba of a Maasai tribe, we entered a family's shamba (constructed out of cow dung), saw their primary school, and participated in a traditional Maasai dance. Although the experience was eye-opening, I could not help but question the effectiveness of the conservation approach. Maasai people 5 km outside of the boma, for example, were suffering from dehydration and malnutrition. The Maasai's herding lifestyle seems difficult to manage due to weather conditions like long droughts and globalization/the impact of tourists.