Due to the Christmas and New Years season, I will not be working until January 5th. I am taking this month-long holiday to my advantage to travel, hike, and explore new cities within Tanzania. From December 6th-12th, I hiked Mt. Kilimanjaro!! This experience was physically and mentally challenging. I have gained a new appreciation for mountain peaks, nature, prayer, family and friends, and myself. I can HONESTLY say that each and every one of you were in MY thoughts as I trekked up the Machame Route.
My journey began at Machame Gate on the southwest side of the mountain and ended at Mweka Gate on the southeast base. I hiked with 2 other guys named Brendan (who volunteers for GSC as well) and Mats (a Swedish NGO worker traveling from Kenya). Each hiker had 3 porters to carry our camping and mountain gear. Along with the porters, there were 2 chefs, 1 assistant guide, and 2 chief guides. I could not believe how many people were involved in assisting 1hiker up the mountain!
The Machame Route is also called the "Whisky Route" and is considered a difficult route. . "better suited for more adventurous folks." Unlike the Marangu Route where you sleep in huts, on the Machame Route you sleep in tents. The camping experience definitely had its advantages--I felt more connected with the mountain and only shared a tent with one other hiker. Camping on Kili, however, was extremely different than other outdoor experiences. All of my equipment and supplies were carried by porters and a cook prepared all of my meals. I felt awkward and uncomfortable having people wait on my hand and foot and I made this feeling well-known to the chief guides. By the end of the trip, most of the porters and the 2 chefs were willing to open up and share their stories.
Each day of hiking had its challenges and highlights. On the first day, we experienced the rain forest immediately. We were welcomed to the mountain by a rain storm and surrounded by beautiful banana trees and Colobus monkeys. The hiking was fairly simple (flat and lower altitude level). On Day 2, we hiked to Shira Camp (2,900 meters). We were exposed to the Western Breach which had ice curtains melting on its walls. On this day, I felt minor symptoms from the change in altitude while hiking (i.e., shortness of breath while hiking steeper hills). At the campsite that night, all 3 hikers' spirits were high. We played cards in our dining tent (yes we had a DINING tent) while it rained throughout the night. On Day 3, and after several hours of hiking, we reached Barranco Camp (3,850m). We hiked to a prominent landmark called Lava Tower which is a remnant of Kili's earlier volcanic activity. We arrived at Barranco Camp just in time for sunset! This site is in a valley below the Breach and Great Barranco Walls. Around 7:30am on Day 4, we rock climbed a side of the magnificent Wall (also called the "Breakfast Wall"). This climb was EXTREMELY challenging and was my first time truly experiencing the side effects of altitude sickness. Due to lack of oxygen, I was very dizzy, had shortness of breath, and a horrible stomach ache. The view from the top of this wall was worth all of the negative side effects--we caught the view while the sun was still shining. On this day, we reached Barafu Camp at 4,670 meters. The word Barafu in Swahili means "ice" yet ironically there is no water available at this campsite. Porters were forced to carry a heavy water supply from Karanga Valley to Barafu. This day was a true struggle for all hikers, porters, and guides due to the extreme height. Our campsite, however, had an incredible view of Mt. Mweka. Day 5=SUMMIT day (or night). We began our ascent to the summit at 11:30PM and hiked for 6 hours straight. Unfortunately, Brendan suffered too badly from altitude sickness to reach the summit while Mats fell behind with one of the chief guides.
My journey to the summit was one of the most awakening experiences. I gained a true insight into the physical and mental limits of my body. I hiked with one of the chief guides named Francis (nickname Cheka English translation "laugh"). Over the past 4 days, I had become close to Cheka and felt comfortable and confident having him lead me up the mountain. In the pitch darkness, Cheka and I slowly trekked up the steep and rocky and below freezing route. I followed his footsteps and refused to look up because every time I tried I felt faint. With each step, I felt my mind drift away to my home in America, to my family, to my friends, to my passions in life, to reggae music, to anything other than hiking. I poured water from my frozen camel back water into my Nalgene (which eventually froze as well) and only took small sips along the way. Of course, due to my small bladder, I peed on the trail and exposed myself to Cheka and other hikers (no shame by the end of this trip). I also had extremely painful stomach pains and continuously burped and passed gas during the majority of our trek.
Reaching Stella Point (5,685m) gave me an adrenaline rush and the confidence to reach the summit known as Uhuru peak (5,895m). For some unexplainable reason, my altitude sickness (stomach and head pains) disappeared. Cheka and I sang the Kilimanjaro song and Welcoming song for Tanzania (sung in Swahili) as we trekked from Stella to Uhuru. At 6AM, Cheka and I were the first hikers of the day to reach the top!!! I was surrounded by Godlike glaciers called Rebmann and Ratzel, Mweka Mountain, and was above the clouds. We remained on the summit until 6:30AM for the sunrise. As other hikers arrived, we took a few pictures together, congratulated the other hikers, and headed down. With so much adrenaline and joy running through us, we ran down the mountain and arrived at Barafu Camp in 2 and 1/2 hours. Cheka nicknamed me "Simba" or "lion" because I was the first of my group and the mountain to arrive at the peak. (I guess all of my intense cardio workouts paid off!). Ever since I reached the summit of Kili, I have been on a "natural mystic high" and I am so happy and proud and FORTUNATE. The hike on Day 5 continued after lunch to Mweka Camp (3,100m). Because I was filled with positive energy, I was able to hike down to this camp at a fast and energetic pace. On Day 6, we spent our final morning on Kili and departed for a 3-hour hike down to the base camp (1,800m).
Saturday, December 12, 2009
Monday, November 30, 2009
a nurse, a wedding, and teaching
November and December are two of the busiest months for clinical officers at St. Elizabeths. Doctors begin their work day at 7AM with morning prayer and ward rounds and have full schedules of outpatient procedures and surgeries until late evening. Because most doctors are too busy to breath, I have focused my attention and trainings on the nurses and pharmacists. I have become dear friends with a woman named Alodia. Alodia is a RN who specializes in pregnancies. Like many nurses, Alodia left her home country (Rwanda) to find available work in TZ. Alodia has four children who live in Rwanda with her brother-in-law. After her husband died, Alodia was forced to marry his brother. From what I can gather, the brother is extremely cruel; he forced Alodia to leave her home and children and refuses to support the children's education fees. Due to her situation, Alodia wires all of her earnings (50, 000 TSH per month) to her children's schools and is living in poverty without daily meals or a suitable home. I pray for Alodia and her children every day--for Alodia's health, for her children's safety and education, and for their reunion. Alodia calls me her "first born daughter" and I have truly grown to love her as my surrogate mother. I spend a few hours in her office every day teaching her how to communicate via email with her children. She also is teaching me invaluable lessons about pregnancies, HIV positive mothers and babies, faith, and the strong bond that can never be broken between a parent and their child.
This weekend I attended a wedding for one of the doctors at my hospital. The celebration was held at a night club in Arusha. Like the first wedding, all of the party members were incredibly welcoming and appreciative for my attendance; I congratulated the bride and groom by dancing in a line formation to the podium; I witnessed the serving of the "cake" or goat between the bride and groom. Every wedding, however, is unique. Many doctors and nurses from St. Elizabeths contributed to the cost of the celebration. There were tables and chairs for over 200 guests, an endless supply of food and drinks, a photographer who sold guests' portraits at the end of the wedding, and even a handicap professional dancer (which I found particularly disturbing).
Along with the wedding, I went hiking in a Massai village called Mulala. I hiked with 2 volunteers and 2 guides named Elli and Godfrey. We hiked to Elli's home and ate lunch with his family. I have ventured on excursions with Elli on previous occasions and love his company. He teaches us about various plants and animals and more importantly Massai culture. Elli directly supports his village and other Massai families by taking hikers to Massai homes for lunch. Also, many of the proceeds that Elli earns are donated to Massai cultural heritage.
On Sunday, I learned how to cook chapati! I am so blessed to be working with a man named Tom. He has welcomed me and 1 other volunteer to his home every Sunday to cook an African FEAST and to dance and sing and play the bongo drums. Two of Tom's roommates work for a well-known orphanage in town called St. Jude's. This orphanage was started by an Australian woman and has developed into one of the most unique primary and secondary schools in Arusha. Unlike most TZ schools, St. Jude's offers elective classes like art and music (both of which are taught by Tom's roommates). It also uses SCHOOL buses to transport children to classes every morning.
Speaking of school, I am teaching at a day camp or health club this week. Due to Christmas holiday, many of the students are available during the day time. GSC is taking this free time to their advantage and having me teach a class of 35 students at a secondary school called Lemara. Today was my first day ever teaching alone! Although more energy and effort are exerted, it is rewarding to be the solo provider of information. Tomorrow is World's AIDS Day so day camp will continue on Wednesday. I am excited to work at the stadium tomorrow for the holiday. Hundreds of people (mostly students) will participate in a variety of performances to spread awareness of AIDS.
This weekend I attended a wedding for one of the doctors at my hospital. The celebration was held at a night club in Arusha. Like the first wedding, all of the party members were incredibly welcoming and appreciative for my attendance; I congratulated the bride and groom by dancing in a line formation to the podium; I witnessed the serving of the "cake" or goat between the bride and groom. Every wedding, however, is unique. Many doctors and nurses from St. Elizabeths contributed to the cost of the celebration. There were tables and chairs for over 200 guests, an endless supply of food and drinks, a photographer who sold guests' portraits at the end of the wedding, and even a handicap professional dancer (which I found particularly disturbing).
Along with the wedding, I went hiking in a Massai village called Mulala. I hiked with 2 volunteers and 2 guides named Elli and Godfrey. We hiked to Elli's home and ate lunch with his family. I have ventured on excursions with Elli on previous occasions and love his company. He teaches us about various plants and animals and more importantly Massai culture. Elli directly supports his village and other Massai families by taking hikers to Massai homes for lunch. Also, many of the proceeds that Elli earns are donated to Massai cultural heritage.
On Sunday, I learned how to cook chapati! I am so blessed to be working with a man named Tom. He has welcomed me and 1 other volunteer to his home every Sunday to cook an African FEAST and to dance and sing and play the bongo drums. Two of Tom's roommates work for a well-known orphanage in town called St. Jude's. This orphanage was started by an Australian woman and has developed into one of the most unique primary and secondary schools in Arusha. Unlike most TZ schools, St. Jude's offers elective classes like art and music (both of which are taught by Tom's roommates). It also uses SCHOOL buses to transport children to classes every morning.
Speaking of school, I am teaching at a day camp or health club this week. Due to Christmas holiday, many of the students are available during the day time. GSC is taking this free time to their advantage and having me teach a class of 35 students at a secondary school called Lemara. Today was my first day ever teaching alone! Although more energy and effort are exerted, it is rewarding to be the solo provider of information. Tomorrow is World's AIDS Day so day camp will continue on Wednesday. I am excited to work at the stadium tomorrow for the holiday. Hundreds of people (mostly students) will participate in a variety of performances to spread awareness of AIDS.
Monday, November 16, 2009
wedding in Marangu and Chagga Tribe
This weekend I attended my first African wedding. I could not believe how many similarities and differences there were as compared to a celebration at home. The ceremony took place in a Catholic church; the prayers, offerings, and wedding vows mirrored a Western Catholic church service. The choir, however, sang and prayed with more passion and love for God than I had ever witnessed. I couldn't control my impulse to get up and to pray and sing and dance with these beautiful people. It was a spiritual moment for me--my heart was filled with love for everyone in the church for welcoming and allowing me to be a part of this celebration.
After the church service, there was a band who followed the wedding party to the reception hall. The reception, unlike the service, was completely different from anything I had experienced. The reception was more like a show and a time for the bride and groom to express their appreciation for their extended families. The bride and groom sat on a decorated altar and their families sat on either side. For the guests, there were rows of chairs facing the altar for us to watch the happenings. I should mention that weddings (or at least Chagga weddings) are centered around the groom's family while send-offs are held for the bride's family. Throughout the ceremony, members from the groom's family were honored (e.g., wrapping of the konga on the groom's mama) and were alloted time to give speeches of appreciation to the groom. Also, the groom made a long and meaningful speech to his guests and family. I was humbled when the groom took the time to publicly thank me and the two other volunteers for attending the wedding. I was thinking to myself, "Joseph, we should be thanking YOU for allowing 3 strangers to be included on your special day."
Reception staff included an announcer, a DJ, a person in charge of the portable lighting system, six chefs, and a wedding committee. Each tradition during the reception was performed in a very systematic way--first the bride's family, then the groom's family, then the guests were involved in certain happenings. Two highlights were the offerings of the gifts and feeding of the "cake" or goat. For the gift offering, both sides of the families and the guests brought their presents to the altar. Dancing and holding your gift high in the air was a requirement! Every guest took such pride in their offering and were so happy to provide the newlyweds with their present. Towards the end of the 4-hour long reception, a cooked goat was carried into the hall. The goat, in the Chagga tribe, is a symbol of sacredness and is eaten during monumental celebrations like weddings, send-offs, and confirmations. The bride and groom fed each other goat meat and then proceeded to feed their parents and grandparents.
An incredible buffet of food was served at the end of the reception. I sampled and loved the goat meat. Surprisingly, while the food was being served, there was a crowd of people who arrived to solely eat. So village members, who were not invited to the reception, showed up for their plate of food! After everyone ate, the celebration ended abruptly.
Although the reception had many distinguishable Chagga traditions, westernization was still present. It saddened me to see a fluorescent and rotating light fixture of NYC on the gift table. There were also matching bridesmaid dresses and a best man. Sodas were served to every guest and Celine Dion was played incessantly.
Overall, however, I am so blessed to have been able to witness such a beautiful ceremony. I will never forget the hospitality and appreciation both wedding parties expressed to me for being a part of their tradition.
Marangu, as mentioned, is home of the Chagga Tribe. (Arusha is home of the Masai Tribe). On Sunday, I went to a Chagga Museum. I liked being able to compare tribal traditions and tools. During the 1800s, there was great conflict between the Chagga and Masai people. Masai people relied heavily on pastoring and were nomadic. Chagga people, conversely, fled from Kenya and settled in the Mt. Kili region due to its abundance of lush farming land and other resources. When the Masai arrived in Marangu, they slaughtered the Chagga's livestock and captured the women. As a result, Chagga families slept with their livestock (e.g., cows and chickens) to assure that they would not be killed. Today, many Masai families have Chagga heritage because of the frequent rapings that occurred throughout history.
The Chagga people (esp. the men) LOVE mbege or banana beer. Using the countless banana trees as a source, the tribe brews their own beer. Mbege is a thicker beer and taste similar to a banana smoothie (I liked it!). Also, unlike Masai men, I noticed that Chagga men are more "manly men." They like to sleep in a separate bed from their wife and children. They also spend a lot of time together sipping mbege from the morning to the evening and show more signs of affection toward each other by holding hands and putting their arms around each other.
After the church service, there was a band who followed the wedding party to the reception hall. The reception, unlike the service, was completely different from anything I had experienced. The reception was more like a show and a time for the bride and groom to express their appreciation for their extended families. The bride and groom sat on a decorated altar and their families sat on either side. For the guests, there were rows of chairs facing the altar for us to watch the happenings. I should mention that weddings (or at least Chagga weddings) are centered around the groom's family while send-offs are held for the bride's family. Throughout the ceremony, members from the groom's family were honored (e.g., wrapping of the konga on the groom's mama) and were alloted time to give speeches of appreciation to the groom. Also, the groom made a long and meaningful speech to his guests and family. I was humbled when the groom took the time to publicly thank me and the two other volunteers for attending the wedding. I was thinking to myself, "Joseph, we should be thanking YOU for allowing 3 strangers to be included on your special day."
Reception staff included an announcer, a DJ, a person in charge of the portable lighting system, six chefs, and a wedding committee. Each tradition during the reception was performed in a very systematic way--first the bride's family, then the groom's family, then the guests were involved in certain happenings. Two highlights were the offerings of the gifts and feeding of the "cake" or goat. For the gift offering, both sides of the families and the guests brought their presents to the altar. Dancing and holding your gift high in the air was a requirement! Every guest took such pride in their offering and were so happy to provide the newlyweds with their present. Towards the end of the 4-hour long reception, a cooked goat was carried into the hall. The goat, in the Chagga tribe, is a symbol of sacredness and is eaten during monumental celebrations like weddings, send-offs, and confirmations. The bride and groom fed each other goat meat and then proceeded to feed their parents and grandparents.
An incredible buffet of food was served at the end of the reception. I sampled and loved the goat meat. Surprisingly, while the food was being served, there was a crowd of people who arrived to solely eat. So village members, who were not invited to the reception, showed up for their plate of food! After everyone ate, the celebration ended abruptly.
Although the reception had many distinguishable Chagga traditions, westernization was still present. It saddened me to see a fluorescent and rotating light fixture of NYC on the gift table. There were also matching bridesmaid dresses and a best man. Sodas were served to every guest and Celine Dion was played incessantly.
Overall, however, I am so blessed to have been able to witness such a beautiful ceremony. I will never forget the hospitality and appreciation both wedding parties expressed to me for being a part of their tradition.
Marangu, as mentioned, is home of the Chagga Tribe. (Arusha is home of the Masai Tribe). On Sunday, I went to a Chagga Museum. I liked being able to compare tribal traditions and tools. During the 1800s, there was great conflict between the Chagga and Masai people. Masai people relied heavily on pastoring and were nomadic. Chagga people, conversely, fled from Kenya and settled in the Mt. Kili region due to its abundance of lush farming land and other resources. When the Masai arrived in Marangu, they slaughtered the Chagga's livestock and captured the women. As a result, Chagga families slept with their livestock (e.g., cows and chickens) to assure that they would not be killed. Today, many Masai families have Chagga heritage because of the frequent rapings that occurred throughout history.
The Chagga people (esp. the men) LOVE mbege or banana beer. Using the countless banana trees as a source, the tribe brews their own beer. Mbege is a thicker beer and taste similar to a banana smoothie (I liked it!). Also, unlike Masai men, I noticed that Chagga men are more "manly men." They like to sleep in a separate bed from their wife and children. They also spend a lot of time together sipping mbege from the morning to the evening and show more signs of affection toward each other by holding hands and putting their arms around each other.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Marangu Waterfall and misc.
Last weekend I ventured outside of Arusha city for the first time. Two of my volunteer friends were transferred to a hospital in Marangu (about two hours north of Arusha). By coach bus and daladala, a hiking guide, another volunteer, and I traveled to Marangu. It was one of the most rejuvenating moments stepping off of the daladala in this jungle-like town. There were banana and acacia trees everywhere--just being removed from the business of city-life and surrounded by nature was incredibly therapeutic. Marangu is located at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. It is also the home of the Chagga tribe. Our group hiked all day, stopping to pick guava and avocados along the way to the waterfall. I will be happily returning to Marangu this weekend to attend a wedding ceremony. This town (though 2 hours away) feels like the ideal place to re-center.
Working at St. Elizabeths hospital is extremely rewarding. As I mentioned, there are two Belgian doctors working at the facility until this Friday. They are working for an organization called Medics without vacation. Primarily they came to this hospital to survey what will be needed for future visits. Unfortunately, due to lack of equipment, the doctors are only able to perform tonsil and adnoidectomies. Chronic hearing and eye problems cannot be treated until the future. Because this hospital lacks specialized doctors, the 2 foreign docs want to train the St. Elizabeth staff on how to recognize chronic illnesses. By doing so, the Belgian docs will not have to waste their time on consultations and will have a list of patients to perform surgeries on. Typically, the 2 doctors performed about 6 surgeries per day and also conducted post-operation rounds. Because they are in Arusha for a short period, I spent most of my time translating and interacting with the patients before and after surgeries. I have loved developing relationships with the hospital staff and patients. This experience has made me seriously consider becoming a nurse or MD in the future!
I think the people of Sekei are finally accepting me as a member of their village. Although children still scream "Mzungu!!," adults and kids my age greet me by my name and enjoy talking to me. I have become friends with many of the shopowners and my neighbors. I cooked dinner for my friend Dixon and his family last week. Dixon, my friend Danielle, and I went to Central Market and bought as many vegetables as we could carry home. Although Tanzanians eat a lot of cooked veggies, eating salad is not common. Danielle and I decided to introduce RAW vegetables into Dixon's family's diet. Over a charcoal fire (which is illegal by the way), we cooked rice and peas and vegetables. We also made a salad (minus the lettuce) and bought cooked beans from Dixon's sister Lilly's restaurant. Chopping vegetables and cooking rice without power is quite the experience. Dinner was a success (with plenty of leftovers). One of the babies did not know how to eat raw veggies and started licking the chopped carrots!
Today it is beautiful outside! I am going to spend my day EXPLORING. I am venturing to the craft market to bargain for a birthday present and central market to buy mangos (tis the season!).
I miss you all very much.
Working at St. Elizabeths hospital is extremely rewarding. As I mentioned, there are two Belgian doctors working at the facility until this Friday. They are working for an organization called Medics without vacation. Primarily they came to this hospital to survey what will be needed for future visits. Unfortunately, due to lack of equipment, the doctors are only able to perform tonsil and adnoidectomies. Chronic hearing and eye problems cannot be treated until the future. Because this hospital lacks specialized doctors, the 2 foreign docs want to train the St. Elizabeth staff on how to recognize chronic illnesses. By doing so, the Belgian docs will not have to waste their time on consultations and will have a list of patients to perform surgeries on. Typically, the 2 doctors performed about 6 surgeries per day and also conducted post-operation rounds. Because they are in Arusha for a short period, I spent most of my time translating and interacting with the patients before and after surgeries. I have loved developing relationships with the hospital staff and patients. This experience has made me seriously consider becoming a nurse or MD in the future!
I think the people of Sekei are finally accepting me as a member of their village. Although children still scream "Mzungu!!," adults and kids my age greet me by my name and enjoy talking to me. I have become friends with many of the shopowners and my neighbors. I cooked dinner for my friend Dixon and his family last week. Dixon, my friend Danielle, and I went to Central Market and bought as many vegetables as we could carry home. Although Tanzanians eat a lot of cooked veggies, eating salad is not common. Danielle and I decided to introduce RAW vegetables into Dixon's family's diet. Over a charcoal fire (which is illegal by the way), we cooked rice and peas and vegetables. We also made a salad (minus the lettuce) and bought cooked beans from Dixon's sister Lilly's restaurant. Chopping vegetables and cooking rice without power is quite the experience. Dinner was a success (with plenty of leftovers). One of the babies did not know how to eat raw veggies and started licking the chopped carrots!
Today it is beautiful outside! I am going to spend my day EXPLORING. I am venturing to the craft market to bargain for a birthday present and central market to buy mangos (tis the season!).
I miss you all very much.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
St. Elizabeth's Hospital
This week I started working at St. Elizabeth's Hospital. The hospital was started as a dispensary in 1975 and due to problems in taking care of mothers and children it was found that there was a need to upgrade this dispensary to a hospital in 1984. This is the second largest hospital in Arusha. It has 120 staff, a capacity of 100 beds, and treats both inpatients and outpatients. It is the only hospital in Arusha with an ophthalmologist (taking care of eye surgeries and diseases). The hospital is in great need of IT training to become a "modern hospital."
Over the next 6 weeks, I will be training doctors and nurses on how to use a computer program called Telemedicine. This program provides access to expertise and second opinions in a matter of 24-48 hours and without the complications of patient referral to another institution. So when a doctor has a medical question, s/he can post on their case on Telemedicine and receive an expert opinion shortly after. In order for doctors to become comfortable using this program, I must first teach many of them basic computer skills like typing, using a mouse, and setting up their own email accounts.
Along with the IT portion, I am shadowing the doctors! For the next 2 weeks, there are 2 eyes, nose, and throat Belgium doctors volunteering at the hospital. These 2 doctors are incredible. Yesterday they performed 6 surgeries--removal of tonsils and adnoids for 6 children. I was able to stand in the operating room and watch every operation! I am so grateful for this opportunity (one that most medical students are not given until their 3rd year at university).
Although St. Elizabeth's hospital is one of the largest facilities in Arusha, it lacks medical staff and equipment. The Belgian doctors brought 2 suitcases full of medical supplies. Patients receive little or no medicine for pain. "Special K" is used as an anethestic (which has been outlawed in the States and Europe due to severe side effects). Patients' families must provide food and bedding for their sick family members. Overcrowding is a problem (not enough beds or recovery rooms). There is only one operating room and many doctors are not qualified to perform specialized surgeries. Also, sanitation is of question. Although every person who enters a surgical room must wear scrubs and a mask, doctors tend to walk freely in and out of the operating wing and are not concerned about contamination.
Today hundreds of patients visited the hospital for consultations from the Belgian doctors. All day the 2 doctors had to prioritize people's need for surgery. Most surgeries are performed on children because families prefer their children to receive care first.
Tomorrow there will be 6 more surgeries that I get to witness!
Over the next 6 weeks, I will be training doctors and nurses on how to use a computer program called Telemedicine. This program provides access to expertise and second opinions in a matter of 24-48 hours and without the complications of patient referral to another institution. So when a doctor has a medical question, s/he can post on their case on Telemedicine and receive an expert opinion shortly after. In order for doctors to become comfortable using this program, I must first teach many of them basic computer skills like typing, using a mouse, and setting up their own email accounts.
Along with the IT portion, I am shadowing the doctors! For the next 2 weeks, there are 2 eyes, nose, and throat Belgium doctors volunteering at the hospital. These 2 doctors are incredible. Yesterday they performed 6 surgeries--removal of tonsils and adnoids for 6 children. I was able to stand in the operating room and watch every operation! I am so grateful for this opportunity (one that most medical students are not given until their 3rd year at university).
Although St. Elizabeth's hospital is one of the largest facilities in Arusha, it lacks medical staff and equipment. The Belgian doctors brought 2 suitcases full of medical supplies. Patients receive little or no medicine for pain. "Special K" is used as an anethestic (which has been outlawed in the States and Europe due to severe side effects). Patients' families must provide food and bedding for their sick family members. Overcrowding is a problem (not enough beds or recovery rooms). There is only one operating room and many doctors are not qualified to perform specialized surgeries. Also, sanitation is of question. Although every person who enters a surgical room must wear scrubs and a mask, doctors tend to walk freely in and out of the operating wing and are not concerned about contamination.
Today hundreds of patients visited the hospital for consultations from the Belgian doctors. All day the 2 doctors had to prioritize people's need for surgery. Most surgeries are performed on children because families prefer their children to receive care first.
Tomorrow there will be 6 more surgeries that I get to witness!
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
life in Tanzania
After spending over 2 weeks in Arusha, it is obvious that life is extremely difficult for many TZ citizens.
EDUCATION:
In my opinion, the education system is a complete failure. Children in TZ attend primary school until grade 7. Secondary school (grades 7-12) must be paid for out of pocket. Both public and private secondary schools require families to pay for school uniforms, textbooks, and school supplies. Wealthier families tend to send their children to boarding schools (both private and public). Along with cost, transportation to school is a major issue. Children in rural villages must walk every day (sometimes hours at a time) to attend school. Clearly, the government places very little funding into the education system. Classrooms are overcrowded (40-50 kids per teacher) and teachers are underpaid and not qualified to teach. Children are rarely provided lunch and must sit through a full day of class on empty stomachs.
This week I am teaching sexual education to a classroom of 53 students. In TZ, reproduction and general health lessons are not taught to the students. Many of the 11-14 year olds in my classroom did not know what the act of sex was. Many girls were unaware of what tampons and pads were used for. I love teaching this topic because if I don't educate these students about sexual issues who will? There is nervous but exciting energy in the room. Students were amazed and eager to learn about sexual organs and the basic human anatomy.
Last week I taught a group of women about HIV/AIDS prevention. Many of the women had never used a condom (male or female) so the condom demonstration was extremely helpful for them. One women took a female condom home with her and the next day at training told all her friends how wonderful it was. Condoms in TZ are cheap (1000TSH for 3) because many nonprofits subsidize brands to spead them to the masses. The problem is that people in rural villages are unaware that they even exist.
GENDER ROLES
Although the roles are starting to shift, women are still expected to be caretakers. Infidelity and polygamy are cultural norms for many tribes (example the Masai men practice polygamy). Many husbands who work far distances from Arusha have sexual partners in each city. Wealthier men, who travel to rural villages, pay young girls, who are desperately trying to sell bananas, for a session of sex. HIV quickly spreads and passes from the young girls to the wealthy men to the wives at home. In order for this virus to stop spreading, BEHAVIOR change must happen. Infidelity must STOP and Masai men who do have multiple wives must be tested.
Women or girls who do not have the funds to attend secondary school usually become house girls or servants. All day 14-20 year old girls cook and clean and tend to the house. This role is usually broken after the girl becomes pregnant or finds a husband.
HEALTH:
Like teachers, there is a great shortage of doctors. There is only one cardiologist and 3 pediatricians in TZ! When a patient is in need of heart surgery, doctors must be contacted and imported from other countries. Doctors are not paid enough for their services in TZ so many MDs leave TZ after completing their degree.
POLITICS:
My friend and counterpart Alli attended university in Dar. He told us that in the classroom professors teach them that opposition leaders or members of Parliament that speak out against these issues are killed or threatened. The government owns many safari companies in Arusha. Where does all this money go? It amazes me how little funding the government places in fundamental systems like education and health. Education, health, and job opportunities are all interconnected. If children were given the opportunity to be educated, serious issues and diseases would be prevented.
In Arusha, many boys walk aimlessly around town begging or trying to sell trinkets to tourists. Many dream of attending guide school (which also costs money) but most fall into the trap of drug abuse and lives filled with no aspirations or motivation. It depresses me every day to see the same group of guys hanging out by Clock Tower. At first I attempted to be friends with them but I have unfortunately learned that most are only after money not genuine friendship.
GREETINGS:
Although these serious issues affect almost every TZ, there is still a liveliness and vibrant energy in Arusha. People are open and happy and smiling and friendly. Everyone talks to everyone. On my 30 minute walk to town, I always talk to at least one or two new people. At first it was overwhelming but I have grown to love being constantly stimulated. I am never alone and I am learning from people constantly.
SIEKE:
This is the name of my village. I LOVE SIEKE!! I have discovered a river tucked behind my village. There are banana trees and beautiful fields to lay in along the water. People come to this sanctuary to bath or wash clothes or play football. I have befriended my neighbor named Dixon. His family grows hopps for mbege or banana beer. His father and brother died a few years back from illness so Dixon is the "man of the house." Dixon's family is financially struggling. His mom, however, welcomed me and 3 other volunteers with open arms and cooked us an extravagant meal. I felt so guilty eating her food but she wanted us to feel welcome in her home.
EDUCATION:
In my opinion, the education system is a complete failure. Children in TZ attend primary school until grade 7. Secondary school (grades 7-12) must be paid for out of pocket. Both public and private secondary schools require families to pay for school uniforms, textbooks, and school supplies. Wealthier families tend to send their children to boarding schools (both private and public). Along with cost, transportation to school is a major issue. Children in rural villages must walk every day (sometimes hours at a time) to attend school. Clearly, the government places very little funding into the education system. Classrooms are overcrowded (40-50 kids per teacher) and teachers are underpaid and not qualified to teach. Children are rarely provided lunch and must sit through a full day of class on empty stomachs.
This week I am teaching sexual education to a classroom of 53 students. In TZ, reproduction and general health lessons are not taught to the students. Many of the 11-14 year olds in my classroom did not know what the act of sex was. Many girls were unaware of what tampons and pads were used for. I love teaching this topic because if I don't educate these students about sexual issues who will? There is nervous but exciting energy in the room. Students were amazed and eager to learn about sexual organs and the basic human anatomy.
Last week I taught a group of women about HIV/AIDS prevention. Many of the women had never used a condom (male or female) so the condom demonstration was extremely helpful for them. One women took a female condom home with her and the next day at training told all her friends how wonderful it was. Condoms in TZ are cheap (1000TSH for 3) because many nonprofits subsidize brands to spead them to the masses. The problem is that people in rural villages are unaware that they even exist.
GENDER ROLES
Although the roles are starting to shift, women are still expected to be caretakers. Infidelity and polygamy are cultural norms for many tribes (example the Masai men practice polygamy). Many husbands who work far distances from Arusha have sexual partners in each city. Wealthier men, who travel to rural villages, pay young girls, who are desperately trying to sell bananas, for a session of sex. HIV quickly spreads and passes from the young girls to the wealthy men to the wives at home. In order for this virus to stop spreading, BEHAVIOR change must happen. Infidelity must STOP and Masai men who do have multiple wives must be tested.
Women or girls who do not have the funds to attend secondary school usually become house girls or servants. All day 14-20 year old girls cook and clean and tend to the house. This role is usually broken after the girl becomes pregnant or finds a husband.
HEALTH:
Like teachers, there is a great shortage of doctors. There is only one cardiologist and 3 pediatricians in TZ! When a patient is in need of heart surgery, doctors must be contacted and imported from other countries. Doctors are not paid enough for their services in TZ so many MDs leave TZ after completing their degree.
POLITICS:
My friend and counterpart Alli attended university in Dar. He told us that in the classroom professors teach them that opposition leaders or members of Parliament that speak out against these issues are killed or threatened. The government owns many safari companies in Arusha. Where does all this money go? It amazes me how little funding the government places in fundamental systems like education and health. Education, health, and job opportunities are all interconnected. If children were given the opportunity to be educated, serious issues and diseases would be prevented.
In Arusha, many boys walk aimlessly around town begging or trying to sell trinkets to tourists. Many dream of attending guide school (which also costs money) but most fall into the trap of drug abuse and lives filled with no aspirations or motivation. It depresses me every day to see the same group of guys hanging out by Clock Tower. At first I attempted to be friends with them but I have unfortunately learned that most are only after money not genuine friendship.
GREETINGS:
Although these serious issues affect almost every TZ, there is still a liveliness and vibrant energy in Arusha. People are open and happy and smiling and friendly. Everyone talks to everyone. On my 30 minute walk to town, I always talk to at least one or two new people. At first it was overwhelming but I have grown to love being constantly stimulated. I am never alone and I am learning from people constantly.
SIEKE:
This is the name of my village. I LOVE SIEKE!! I have discovered a river tucked behind my village. There are banana trees and beautiful fields to lay in along the water. People come to this sanctuary to bath or wash clothes or play football. I have befriended my neighbor named Dixon. His family grows hopps for mbege or banana beer. His father and brother died a few years back from illness so Dixon is the "man of the house." Dixon's family is financially struggling. His mom, however, welcomed me and 3 other volunteers with open arms and cooked us an extravagant meal. I felt so guilty eating her food but she wanted us to feel welcome in her home.
Monday, October 19, 2009
arrival in Arusha
Hello everyone! Sorry for not posting sooner. Orientation week was extremely busy--introductions, tour of beautiful Arusha, home based care and sustainable gardening visits, training information on HIV/AIDS prevention, etc. As of now, there are 6 other volunteers that are involved with GSC. I am living in a village that is a 10 min walk to the center of the city. Mama Elly is my home stay mother and she has a daughter named Einot who attends boarding school and a house girl (essentially a maid) named Vanessa. Vanessa is 20 years old and can only speak Swahili. Although communication is difficult, we have managed to form a friendship through the Swahili-English dictionary and our love for the same music.
This week I have started teaching HIV/AIDS prevention for a village 30 minutes outside of Arusha. Attendance today was low but tomorrow we are going to recruit more people to join our seminar by speaking to village leaders in the morning.
Greetings in Tanzania are extremely important and this has helped me practice and learn Swahili. There are specific greetings for elders, children, friends, and strangers. Everyone says hello to everyone with such excitement and happiness. It is impossible to walk down the road and not say "Mambo" or "Hatujambo" or "Shikamoo" to someone you see.
Arusha is a beautiful and vibrant city. Over the weekend, I started to explore the area. In touristy areas like the Clock Tower locals try to sell "mzungu" or foreigners trinkets and paintings. I quickly learned the expression "hapana asante" or "no thank you" but I still ended up introducing myself to many locals and have started to form friendships with the kids who hang out around town.
Although every day is market day, Wednesdays and Saturdays are the busiest times. Hundreds of shops sell fresh produce, handmade jewelry, fabrics, and crafts. When I went to the food market on Saturday, a guy named Erick befriended me and introduced me to several of the owners.
Mt . Meru, which is the second highest peak in Tanzania, is located on the outskirts of town. On Sunday, I hiked to Mt. Meru's waterfalls with other volunteers and a guide. In December, I want to hike to the summit which will take about 3 or 4 days.
Sorry that this post is all over the place. I have so much to say and so little time on this computer.
I love you all.
Tutoanno Kesho,
Jenna
This week I have started teaching HIV/AIDS prevention for a village 30 minutes outside of Arusha. Attendance today was low but tomorrow we are going to recruit more people to join our seminar by speaking to village leaders in the morning.
Greetings in Tanzania are extremely important and this has helped me practice and learn Swahili. There are specific greetings for elders, children, friends, and strangers. Everyone says hello to everyone with such excitement and happiness. It is impossible to walk down the road and not say "Mambo" or "Hatujambo" or "Shikamoo" to someone you see.
Arusha is a beautiful and vibrant city. Over the weekend, I started to explore the area. In touristy areas like the Clock Tower locals try to sell "mzungu" or foreigners trinkets and paintings. I quickly learned the expression "hapana asante" or "no thank you" but I still ended up introducing myself to many locals and have started to form friendships with the kids who hang out around town.
Although every day is market day, Wednesdays and Saturdays are the busiest times. Hundreds of shops sell fresh produce, handmade jewelry, fabrics, and crafts. When I went to the food market on Saturday, a guy named Erick befriended me and introduced me to several of the owners.
Mt . Meru, which is the second highest peak in Tanzania, is located on the outskirts of town. On Sunday, I hiked to Mt. Meru's waterfalls with other volunteers and a guide. In December, I want to hike to the summit which will take about 3 or 4 days.
Sorry that this post is all over the place. I have so much to say and so little time on this computer.
I love you all.
Tutoanno Kesho,
Jenna
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Hello family and friends
After several requests, I have decided to create a blog for my 8-month volunteer experience in Tanzania. I depart on Friday, October 9th and will arrive in Arusha the following day. I hope that this blog will give you a taste of my life overseas. I love you all very much and look forward to sharing my experiences with you!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
