Monday, November 30, 2009

a nurse, a wedding, and teaching

November and December are two of the busiest months for clinical officers at St. Elizabeths. Doctors begin their work day at 7AM with morning prayer and ward rounds and have full schedules of outpatient procedures and surgeries until late evening. Because most doctors are too busy to breath, I have focused my attention and trainings on the nurses and pharmacists. I have become dear friends with a woman named Alodia. Alodia is a RN who specializes in pregnancies. Like many nurses, Alodia left her home country (Rwanda) to find available work in TZ. Alodia has four children who live in Rwanda with her brother-in-law. After her husband died, Alodia was forced to marry his brother. From what I can gather, the brother is extremely cruel; he forced Alodia to leave her home and children and refuses to support the children's education fees. Due to her situation, Alodia wires all of her earnings (50, 000 TSH per month) to her children's schools and is living in poverty without daily meals or a suitable home. I pray for Alodia and her children every day--for Alodia's health, for her children's safety and education, and for their reunion. Alodia calls me her "first born daughter" and I have truly grown to love her as my surrogate mother. I spend a few hours in her office every day teaching her how to communicate via email with her children. She also is teaching me invaluable lessons about pregnancies, HIV positive mothers and babies, faith, and the strong bond that can never be broken between a parent and their child.

This weekend I attended a wedding for one of the doctors at my hospital. The celebration was held at a night club in Arusha. Like the first wedding, all of the party members were incredibly welcoming and appreciative for my attendance; I congratulated the bride and groom by dancing in a line formation to the podium; I witnessed the serving of the "cake" or goat between the bride and groom. Every wedding, however, is unique. Many doctors and nurses from St. Elizabeths contributed to the cost of the celebration. There were tables and chairs for over 200 guests, an endless supply of food and drinks, a photographer who sold guests' portraits at the end of the wedding, and even a handicap professional dancer (which I found particularly disturbing).

Along with the wedding, I went hiking in a Massai village called Mulala. I hiked with 2 volunteers and 2 guides named Elli and Godfrey. We hiked to Elli's home and ate lunch with his family. I have ventured on excursions with Elli on previous occasions and love his company. He teaches us about various plants and animals and more importantly Massai culture. Elli directly supports his village and other Massai families by taking hikers to Massai homes for lunch. Also, many of the proceeds that Elli earns are donated to Massai cultural heritage.

On Sunday, I learned how to cook chapati! I am so blessed to be working with a man named Tom. He has welcomed me and 1 other volunteer to his home every Sunday to cook an African FEAST and to dance and sing and play the bongo drums. Two of Tom's roommates work for a well-known orphanage in town called St. Jude's. This orphanage was started by an Australian woman and has developed into one of the most unique primary and secondary schools in Arusha. Unlike most TZ schools, St. Jude's offers elective classes like art and music (both of which are taught by Tom's roommates). It also uses SCHOOL buses to transport children to classes every morning.

Speaking of school, I am teaching at a day camp or health club this week. Due to Christmas holiday, many of the students are available during the day time. GSC is taking this free time to their advantage and having me teach a class of 35 students at a secondary school called Lemara. Today was my first day ever teaching alone! Although more energy and effort are exerted, it is rewarding to be the solo provider of information. Tomorrow is World's AIDS Day so day camp will continue on Wednesday. I am excited to work at the stadium tomorrow for the holiday. Hundreds of people (mostly students) will participate in a variety of performances to spread awareness of AIDS.

Monday, November 16, 2009

wedding in Marangu and Chagga Tribe

This weekend I attended my first African wedding. I could not believe how many similarities and differences there were as compared to a celebration at home. The ceremony took place in a Catholic church; the prayers, offerings, and wedding vows mirrored a Western Catholic church service. The choir, however, sang and prayed with more passion and love for God than I had ever witnessed. I couldn't control my impulse to get up and to pray and sing and dance with these beautiful people. It was a spiritual moment for me--my heart was filled with love for everyone in the church for welcoming and allowing me to be a part of this celebration.

After the church service, there was a band who followed the wedding party to the reception hall. The reception, unlike the service, was completely different from anything I had experienced. The reception was more like a show and a time for the bride and groom to express their appreciation for their extended families. The bride and groom sat on a decorated altar and their families sat on either side. For the guests, there were rows of chairs facing the altar for us to watch the happenings. I should mention that weddings (or at least Chagga weddings) are centered around the groom's family while send-offs are held for the bride's family. Throughout the ceremony, members from the groom's family were honored (e.g., wrapping of the konga on the groom's mama) and were alloted time to give speeches of appreciation to the groom. Also, the groom made a long and meaningful speech to his guests and family. I was humbled when the groom took the time to publicly thank me and the two other volunteers for attending the wedding. I was thinking to myself, "Joseph, we should be thanking YOU for allowing 3 strangers to be included on your special day."

Reception staff included an announcer, a DJ, a person in charge of the portable lighting system, six chefs, and a wedding committee. Each tradition during the reception was performed in a very systematic way--first the bride's family, then the groom's family, then the guests were involved in certain happenings. Two highlights were the offerings of the gifts and feeding of the "cake" or goat. For the gift offering, both sides of the families and the guests brought their presents to the altar. Dancing and holding your gift high in the air was a requirement! Every guest took such pride in their offering and were so happy to provide the newlyweds with their present. Towards the end of the 4-hour long reception, a cooked goat was carried into the hall. The goat, in the Chagga tribe, is a symbol of sacredness and is eaten during monumental celebrations like weddings, send-offs, and confirmations. The bride and groom fed each other goat meat and then proceeded to feed their parents and grandparents.

An incredible buffet of food was served at the end of the reception. I sampled and loved the goat meat. Surprisingly, while the food was being served, there was a crowd of people who arrived to solely eat. So village members, who were not invited to the reception, showed up for their plate of food! After everyone ate, the celebration ended abruptly.

Although the reception had many distinguishable Chagga traditions, westernization was still present. It saddened me to see a fluorescent and rotating light fixture of NYC on the gift table. There were also matching bridesmaid dresses and a best man. Sodas were served to every guest and Celine Dion was played incessantly.

Overall, however, I am so blessed to have been able to witness such a beautiful ceremony. I will never forget the hospitality and appreciation both wedding parties expressed to me for being a part of their tradition.

Marangu, as mentioned, is home of the Chagga Tribe. (Arusha is home of the Masai Tribe). On Sunday, I went to a Chagga Museum. I liked being able to compare tribal traditions and tools. During the 1800s, there was great conflict between the Chagga and Masai people. Masai people relied heavily on pastoring and were nomadic. Chagga people, conversely, fled from Kenya and settled in the Mt. Kili region due to its abundance of lush farming land and other resources. When the Masai arrived in Marangu, they slaughtered the Chagga's livestock and captured the women. As a result, Chagga families slept with their livestock (e.g., cows and chickens) to assure that they would not be killed. Today, many Masai families have Chagga heritage because of the frequent rapings that occurred throughout history.

The Chagga people (esp. the men) LOVE mbege or banana beer. Using the countless banana trees as a source, the tribe brews their own beer. Mbege is a thicker beer and taste similar to a banana smoothie (I liked it!). Also, unlike Masai men, I noticed that Chagga men are more "manly men." They like to sleep in a separate bed from their wife and children. They also spend a lot of time together sipping mbege from the morning to the evening and show more signs of affection toward each other by holding hands and putting their arms around each other.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Marangu Waterfall and misc.

Last weekend I ventured outside of Arusha city for the first time. Two of my volunteer friends were transferred to a hospital in Marangu (about two hours north of Arusha). By coach bus and daladala, a hiking guide, another volunteer, and I traveled to Marangu. It was one of the most rejuvenating moments stepping off of the daladala in this jungle-like town. There were banana and acacia trees everywhere--just being removed from the business of city-life and surrounded by nature was incredibly therapeutic. Marangu is located at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. It is also the home of the Chagga tribe. Our group hiked all day, stopping to pick guava and avocados along the way to the waterfall. I will be happily returning to Marangu this weekend to attend a wedding ceremony. This town (though 2 hours away) feels like the ideal place to re-center.

Working at St. Elizabeths hospital is extremely rewarding. As I mentioned, there are two Belgian doctors working at the facility until this Friday. They are working for an organization called Medics without vacation. Primarily they came to this hospital to survey what will be needed for future visits. Unfortunately, due to lack of equipment, the doctors are only able to perform tonsil and adnoidectomies. Chronic hearing and eye problems cannot be treated until the future. Because this hospital lacks specialized doctors, the 2 foreign docs want to train the St. Elizabeth staff on how to recognize chronic illnesses. By doing so, the Belgian docs will not have to waste their time on consultations and will have a list of patients to perform surgeries on. Typically, the 2 doctors performed about 6 surgeries per day and also conducted post-operation rounds. Because they are in Arusha for a short period, I spent most of my time translating and interacting with the patients before and after surgeries. I have loved developing relationships with the hospital staff and patients. This experience has made me seriously consider becoming a nurse or MD in the future!

I think the people of Sekei are finally accepting me as a member of their village. Although children still scream "Mzungu!!," adults and kids my age greet me by my name and enjoy talking to me. I have become friends with many of the shopowners and my neighbors. I cooked dinner for my friend Dixon and his family last week. Dixon, my friend Danielle, and I went to Central Market and bought as many vegetables as we could carry home. Although Tanzanians eat a lot of cooked veggies, eating salad is not common. Danielle and I decided to introduce RAW vegetables into Dixon's family's diet. Over a charcoal fire (which is illegal by the way), we cooked rice and peas and vegetables. We also made a salad (minus the lettuce) and bought cooked beans from Dixon's sister Lilly's restaurant. Chopping vegetables and cooking rice without power is quite the experience. Dinner was a success (with plenty of leftovers). One of the babies did not know how to eat raw veggies and started licking the chopped carrots!

Today it is beautiful outside! I am going to spend my day EXPLORING. I am venturing to the craft market to bargain for a birthday present and central market to buy mangos (tis the season!).

I miss you all very much.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

St. Elizabeth's Hospital

This week I started working at St. Elizabeth's Hospital. The hospital was started as a dispensary in 1975 and due to problems in taking care of mothers and children it was found that there was a need to upgrade this dispensary to a hospital in 1984. This is the second largest hospital in Arusha. It has 120 staff, a capacity of 100 beds, and treats both inpatients and outpatients. It is the only hospital in Arusha with an ophthalmologist (taking care of eye surgeries and diseases). The hospital is in great need of IT training to become a "modern hospital."

Over the next 6 weeks, I will be training doctors and nurses on how to use a computer program called Telemedicine. This program provides access to expertise and second opinions in a matter of 24-48 hours and without the complications of patient referral to another institution. So when a doctor has a medical question, s/he can post on their case on Telemedicine and receive an expert opinion shortly after. In order for doctors to become comfortable using this program, I must first teach many of them basic computer skills like typing, using a mouse, and setting up their own email accounts.

Along with the IT portion, I am shadowing the doctors! For the next 2 weeks, there are 2 eyes, nose, and throat Belgium doctors volunteering at the hospital. These 2 doctors are incredible. Yesterday they performed 6 surgeries--removal of tonsils and adnoids for 6 children. I was able to stand in the operating room and watch every operation! I am so grateful for this opportunity (one that most medical students are not given until their 3rd year at university).

Although St. Elizabeth's hospital is one of the largest facilities in Arusha, it lacks medical staff and equipment. The Belgian doctors brought 2 suitcases full of medical supplies. Patients receive little or no medicine for pain. "Special K" is used as an anethestic (which has been outlawed in the States and Europe due to severe side effects). Patients' families must provide food and bedding for their sick family members. Overcrowding is a problem (not enough beds or recovery rooms). There is only one operating room and many doctors are not qualified to perform specialized surgeries. Also, sanitation is of question. Although every person who enters a surgical room must wear scrubs and a mask, doctors tend to walk freely in and out of the operating wing and are not concerned about contamination.

Today hundreds of patients visited the hospital for consultations from the Belgian doctors. All day the 2 doctors had to prioritize people's need for surgery. Most surgeries are performed on children because families prefer their children to receive care first.

Tomorrow there will be 6 more surgeries that I get to witness!